Description

Title: COMPOSITION OF THE GEL/GEL TYPE COMPRISING BORON NITRIDE

PARTICLES AND AT LEAST ONE ENCAPSULATED PIGMENT

[0001 ] The present invention relates to a composition, in particular comprising a

physiologically acceptable medium, notably for coating keratin materials, more particularly for making up and/or caring for keratin materials, which is a cosmetic composition for making up and/or caring for keratin materials, in particular the skin and/or the lips, comprising:

[0002] a) at least one aqueous phase gelled with at least one hydrophilic gelling

agent; and

[0003] b) at least one oily phase gelled with at least one lipophilic gelling agent;

[0004] said phases forming therein a macroscopically homogeneous mixture; said composition also comprising:

[0005] c) boron nitride particles,

[0006] d) at least one encapsulated pigment, and

[0007] e) at least one non-starchy polysaccharide.

[0008] The invention also relates to a cosmetic process for treating keratin materials, more particularly for making up and/or caring for keratin materials, such as the skin, characterized in that it comprises the application to the keratin materials of a composition as defined previously.

Technical field

[0009] The skin is not a smooth surface of uniform color, and has reliefs and

microreliefs such as pores, wrinkles, fine lines, spots, scars and dry areas, which form a somewhat bumpy surface. Quite often, this surface, with its irregularities, forms a pleasant-looking whole, but the irregularities are such that the surface is occasionally considered unattractive.

[0010] Cosmetic makeup and/or care compositions are commonly employed for hiding and/or unifying skin relief imperfections such as pores, wrinkles and/or fine lines and/or scars. In this regard, many solid or fluid, anhydrous or non- anhydrous formulations have been developed to date.

[0011 ] The application of a makeup composition such as a foundation is the most effective approach for enhancing the beauty of irregular skin, making it possible to hide stains and dyschromias (such as diffuse red patches or red patches around the eyes), to reduce the visibility of relief imperfections such as pores and wrinkles, and to conceal spots and acne marks; in this regard, coverage is one of the main properties sought. Pigments, notably encapsulated pigments, are generally used in these compositions. However, the latter are opaque, and have a tendency to accumulate in the reliefs such as pores and wrinkles, to create a contrast in terms of opacity and color and to accentuate these relief

imperfections.

[0012] In addition to the problem of accentuation, makeup compositions with high contents of encapsulated pigments have a tendency to produce a feeling of thickness, and of an unnatural mask on keratin materials such as the skin.

Makeup compositions such as foundations containing a lower content of encapsulated pigments introduce less opacity and less of a "mask" effect and give the skin a more natural look. Nevertheless, they do not make it possible to obtain very good uniformity of the complexion because of their lower opacity.

[0013] Moreover, it is also important for the compositions for making up and/or caring for keratin materials such as the skin to afford cosmetic and notably sensory properties that are satisfactory as regards the comfort of the consumer, in particular compositions which are soft, fresh and light on application.

[0014] There is thus still a need to find new cosmetic compositions comprising

encapsulated pigments which can effectively hide the imperfections of keratin materials, substantially reduce or even eliminate the effects of accentuation of the reliefs and of the mask effect on keratin materials such as the skin, and/or produce good uniformity of the complexion while at the same time maintaining a natural appearance, notably a natural skin color without any dullness, and/or without any "plaster" or mask effect (in particular, for example, to correct red patches on the skin such as those around the eyes), and also having cosmetic properties that are satisfactory for consumer comfort, notably good properties in terms of fluidity, glidance and/or absence of tack, and which notably allow a good play time, i.e. easy and pleasant spreading during application, and leaving a soft finish on the skin.

[0015] In the course of its research, the Applicant has discovered, surprisingly, that this objective can be achieved with a composition comprising:

[0016] a) at least one aqueous phase gelled with at least one hydrophilic gelling agent; and

[0017] b) at least one oily phase gelled with at least one lipophilic gelling agent;

[0018] said phases forming therein a macroscopically homogeneous mixture; said composition also comprising:

[0019] c) boron nitride particles,

[0020] d) at least one encapsulated pigment, and

[0021 ] e) at least one non-starchy polysaccharide.

[0022]

[0023] This discovery forms the basis of the invention.

[0024] The present invention relates to a composition, in particular comprising a physiologically acceptable medium, notably for coating keratin materials, more particularly for making up and/or caring for keratin materials, which is a cosmetic composition for making up and/or caring for keratin materials, in particular the skin and/or the lips, comprising:

[0025] a) at least one aqueous phase gelled with at least one hydrophilic gelling agent; and

[0026] b) at least one oily phase gelled with at least one lipophilic gelling agent;

[0027] said phases forming therein a macroscopically homogeneous mixture; said composition also comprising:

[0028] c) boron nitride particles,

[0029] d) at least one encapsulated pigment, and

[0030] e) at least one non-starchy polysaccharide. [0031 ] The invention also relates to a cosmetic process for treating keratin materials, more particularly for making up and/or caring for keratin materials, such as the skin, characterized in that it comprises the application to the keratin materials of a composition as defined previously.

Detailed description

[0032] In the context of the present invention, the term "keratin materials" means the skin and more particularly the areas such as the face, the cheeks, the hands, the body, the legs and thighs, the area around the eyes, and the eyelids.

[0033] The term“physiologically acceptable” means compatible with the skin and/or its integuments, which has a pleasant color, odor and feel and which does not give rise to any unacceptable discomfort.

[0034] The term“filler” should be understood as meaning colorless or white solid particles of any form, which are in an insoluble form dispersed in the medium of the composition.

[0035] In the context of the present invention, the term "soft focus" denotes a hazy effect which hides the skin's microreliefs. This effect makes it possible notably to attenuate, via an optical effect, skin defects such as marks, wrinkles or fine lines and the visibility of the pores.

[0036] These soft-focus fillers may also be referred to as fillers with a soft-focus

effect or haze-effect fillers.

[0037] The term“pigments” means white or colored, mineral or organic particles, which are insoluble in an aqueous medium, and which are intended to color and/or opacify the resulting composition and/or film. These pigments may be white or colored, and mineral and/or organic.

[0038] The term "encapsulated dye" means a dye which is contained in

microcapsules. In particular, the dye is a pigment, chosen notably from organic and mineral pigments, preferably mineral pigments.

[0039] "gel/gel" compositions have already been proposed in the cosmetic field.

Formulations of this type combine a gelled aqueous phase with a gelled oily phase. Thus, gel/gel formulations are described in Almeida et al. , Pharmaceutical Development and Technology, 2008, 13:487, tables 1 and 2, page 488; WO 99/65455; PI 0405758-9; WO 99/62497; JP 2005-112834 and WO 2008/081175. However, to the inventors' knowledge, this type of composition does not currently make it possible to dissimulate and smooth out relief imperfections without thereby impairing the other expected cosmetic performance qualities.

[0040] A composition according to the invention comprises boron nitride particles, notably in an amount ranging from 0.2% to 15% by weight, in particular from 1 % to 10% by weight, more particularly from 3% to 7% by weight and preferably from 4% to 6% by weight of boron nitride particles relative to the total weight of said composition.

[0041 ] According to one embodiment variant, a composition according to the

invention may comprise from 0.2% to 40% by weight, notably from 1 % to 30% by weight, in particular from 5% to 25% by weight and preferably from 10% to 25% by total weight of soft-focus filler(s) (boron nitride particles and additional soft- focus fillers), relative to the total weight of said composition.

[0042] According to an advantageous embodiment variant, said soft-focus filler(s) are totally or partly, and preferably solely, present in the gelled aqueous phase or are totally or partly, and preferably solely, present in the gelled oily phase.

[0043] As stated above, the inventors have found that the choice of a particular

hydrophilic gelling agent for texturing the aqueous phase of a composition of gel/gel type and the use of soft-focus fillers in a composition according to the invention makes it possible to duplicate the effects of these fillers, as illustrated in the examples.

[0044] Thus, a composition according to the invention shows very good properties in terms of hiding relief imperfections and of smoothing out the skin, while at the same time affording the user a sensation of freshness and lightness. Finally, the composition proves to be easy to apply to the surface of the targeted keratin material.

According to another of its aspects, a subject of the invention is also a process for preparing a cosmetic composition for making up and/or caring for keratin materials, in particular the skin, notably the skin around the eyes, and/or the lips, comprising at least one step of mixing:

. an aqueous phase gelled with at least one hydrophilic gelling agent; and . at least one oily phase gelled with at least one lipophilic gelling agent; under conditions that are suitable for obtaining a macroscopically homogeneous mixture; said composition also comprising at least one soft-focus filler chosen from boron nitride particles, at least one encapsulated pigment, and at least one non-starchy polysaccharide.

[0045] According to one embodiment variant, this process may advantageously comprise a step of mixing at least three or even more gelled phases.

[0046] For obvious reasons, the number of gelled aqueous phases and of gelled oily phases to be considered for forming a composition according to the invention may range for each of the two types of phase beyond two.

[0047] Advantageously, the mixing of the phases may be performed at room

temperature.

[0048] However, the process of the invention may include, if necessary, a step of heating the mixture.

[0049] According to a particular embodiment, the representative gelled phases of the same type of architecture are gelled with a different gelling agent.

[0050] Multi-phase formulations may thus be developed.

[0051 ] According to another of its aspects, a subject of the invention is also a

process, notably a cosmetic process, for making up and/or caring for a keratin material, in particular the skin, comprising at least one step which consists in applying to said keratin material a composition in accordance with the invention.

[0052] According to yet another of its aspects, the present invention relates to a cosmetic process for making up and/or caring for a keratin material, in particular the skin, comprising at least the application to said material of a macroscopically homogeneous composition obtained by extemporaneous mixing, before application or at the time of application to said keratin material, of at least one aqueous phase gelled with at least one synthetic polymeric hydrophilic gelling agent, and of at least one oily phase gelled with at least one lipophilic gelling agent; and said composition also comprising at least boron nitride particles, at least one encapsulated pigment, and at least one non-starchy polysaccharide.

[0053] Cosmetic composition [0054] To begin with, it is important to note that a composition according to the invention is different than an emulsion.

[0055] An emulsion generally consists of an oily liquid phase and an aqueous liquid phase. It is a dispersion of droplets of one of the two liquid phases in the other. The size of the droplets forming the dispersed phase of the emulsion is typically about a micrometre (0.1 to 100 pm). Furthermore, an emulsion requires the presence of a surfactant or of an emulsifier to ensure its stability over time.

[0056] In contrast, a composition according to the invention consists of a

macroscopically homogeneous mixture of two immiscible gelled phases. These two phases both have a gel-type texture. This texture is notably reflected visually by a consistent and/or creamy appearance.

[0057] The term "macroscopically homogeneous mixture" means a mixture in which each of the gelled phases cannot be individualized by the naked eye.

[0058] More precisely, in a composition according to the invention, the gelled

aqueous phase and the gelled oily phase interpenetrate and thus form a stable, consistent product. This consistency is achieved by mixing interpenetrated macrodomains. These interpenetrated macrodomains are not measurable objects. Thus, by microscope, the composition according to the invention is very different from an emulsion. A composition according to the invention also cannot be characterized as having a "sense", i.e. an O/W or W/O sense.

[0059] Thus, a composition according to the invention has a consistency of gel type.

The stability of the composition is long-lasting without surfactant. Consequently, a cosmetic composition according to the invention does not require any surfactant or silicone emulsifier to ensure its stability over time.

[0060] It is known practice from the prior art to observe the intrinsic nature of a

mixture of aqueous and oily gels in a composition of gel type, for example, by introducing a dyestuff either into the aqueous gelled phase or into the lipophilic gelled phase, before the formation of the composition of gel/gel type. During visual inspection, in a composition of gel/gel type, the dyestuff appears uniformly dispersed, even if the dye is present solely in the gelled aqueous phase or in the gelled oily phase. Specifically, if two different dyes of different colors are introduced, respectively, into the oily phase and into the aqueous phase, before formation of the composition of gel/gel type, the two colors may be observed as being uniformly dispersed throughout the composition of gel/gel type. This is different from an emulsion in which, if a dye, which is soluble in water or soluble in oil, is introduced, respectively, into the aqueous and oily phases, before forming the emulsion, only the color of the dye present in the outer phase will be observed (Remington: The Science and Practice of Pharmacy, 19th Edition (1995), Chapter 21 , page 282).

[0061 ] It is also known practice to distinguish a composition of gel/gel type from an emulsion by performing a“drop test”. This test consists in demonstrating the bi- continuous nature of a composition of gel/gel type. Specifically, as mentioned previously, the consistency of a composition is obtained by means of the interpenetration of the aqueous and oily gelled domains. Consequently, the bi- continuous nature of a composition of gel/gel type may be demonstrated by means of a simple test with, respectively, hydrophilic and hydrophobic solvents. This test consists in depositing, firstly, one drop of a hydrophilic solvent on a first sample of the tested composition, and, secondly, one drop of a hydrophobic solvent on a second sample of the same tested composition, and in analysing the behaviour of the two drops of solvents. In the case of an O/W emulsion, the drop of hydrophilic solvent diffuses into the sample and the drop of hydrophobic solvent remains at the surface of the sample. In the case of a W/O emulsion, the drop of hydrophilic solvent remains at the surface of the sample and the drop of hydrophobic solvent diffuses throughout the sample. Finally, in the case of a composition of gel/gel type (bi-continuous system), the hydrophilic and

hydrophobic drops diffuse throughout the sample.

[0062] In the case of the present invention, the test that will be preferred for

distinguishing a composition of gel/gel type from an emulsion is a dilution test. Specifically, in a composition of gel/gel type, the aqueous and oily gelled domains interpenetrate and form a consistent and stable composition, in which the behavior in water and in oil is different from the behavior of an emulsion.

Consequently, the behavior during dilution of a composition of gel/gel type (bi- continuous system) may be compared to that of an emulsion.

[0063] More specifically, the dilution test consists in placing 40 g of product and 160 g of dilution solvent (water or oil) in a suitable plastic beaker. The dilution is performed with controlled stirring to avoid any emulsification. In particular, this is performed using a planetary mixer: Speed Mixer TM DAC400FVZ®. The speed of the mixer is set at 1500 rpm for 4 minutes. Finally, observation of the resulting sample is performed using a light microscope at a magnification of *100

(x10*10). It may be noted that oils such as Parleam® and Xiameter PMX-200 Silicone Fluid 5CS® sold by Dow Corning are suitable for use as dilution solvent.

[0064] In the case of a composition of gel/gel type (bi-continuous system), when it is diluted in oil or in water, a heterogeneous appearance is always observed. When a composition of gel/gel type (bi-continuous system) is diluted in water, pieces of oily gel in suspension are observed, and, when a composition of gel type (bi- continuous system) is diluted in oil, pieces of aqueous gel in suspension are observed.

[0065] In contrast, during dilution, emulsions have a different behavior. When an

O/W emulsion is diluted in an aqueous solvent, it gradually reduces without having a heterogeneous and lumpy appearance. This same O/W emulsion, on dilution with oil, has a heterogeneous appearance (pieces of O/W emulsion suspended in the oil). When a W/O emulsion is diluted with an aqueous solvent, it has a heterogeneous appearance (pieces of W/O emulsion suspended in the water). This same W/O emulsion, when diluted in oil, gradually reduces without having a heterogeneous and lumpy appearance.

[0066] According to the present invention, the aqueous gelled phase and the oily gelled phase forming a composition according to the invention are present therein in a weight ratio ranging from 95/5 to 5/95. More preferentially, the aqueous phase and the oily phase are present in a weight ratio ranging from 30/70 to 80/20. The ratio between the two gelled phases is adjusted according to the desired cosmetic properties.

[0067] Thus, in the case of a makeup composition, in particular for the face, it may be advantageous to favor an aqueous gelled phase/oily gelled phase weight ratio of greater than 1 , notably ranging from 60/40 to 90/10, preferably ranging from 60/40 to 80/20, preferentially from 60/40 to 70/30 and even more preferentially to favor an aqueous gelled phase/oily gelled phase weight ratio of 60/40 or 70/30. [0068] These preferred ratios are particularly advantageous for obtaining fresh and light compositions.

[0069] Advantageously, a composition according to the invention is thus in the form of a creamy gel with a minimum stress below which it does not flow unless it has been subjected to an external mechanical stress.

[0070] As emerges from the text hereinbelow, a composition according to the

invention may have a minimum threshold stress of 1.5 Pa and in particular greater than 10 Pa.

[0071 ] It may also advantageously have a stiffness modulus G* at least equal to 400 Pa and preferably greater than 1000 Pa.

[0072] According to an advantageous embodiment variant, the gelled phases under consideration for forming a composition according to the invention may have, respectively, a threshold stress of greater than 1.5 Pa and preferably greater than 10 Pa.

[0073] Characterization of the threshold stresses is performed by oscillating rheology measurements.

[0074] In general, the corresponding measurements are taken at 25°C using a

Haake RS600 imposed-stress rheometer equipped with a plate-plate measuring body (60 mm diameter) fitted with an anti-evaporation device (bell jar). For each measurement, the sample is placed delicately in position and the measurements start 5 minutes after placing the sample in the jaws (2 mm). The test composition is then subjected to a stress ramp from 10 ^-2 to 10 ³ Pa at a set frequency of 1 Hz.

[0075] A composition according to the invention may also have a certain elasticity.

This elasticity may be characterized by a stiffness modulus G* which, under this minimum stress threshold, may be at least equal to 400 Pa and preferably greater than 1000 Pa. The value G* of a composition may be obtained by subjecting the composition under consideration to a stress ramp from 10 ^-2 to 10 ³ Pa at a set frequency of 1 Hz.

[0076] In a preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention have good fluidity and glidance properties, notably during their application to keratin materials such as the skin. [0077] In one particular embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention which has good glidance properties has a viscosity in the jar or the container which contains it (1 s ^_1 ) of less than 1000 Pa.s, a viscosity on uptake (10 s ¹ ) of less than 100 Pa.s and a viscosity on application (1000 s ^_1 ) of less than 0.1 Pa.s.

[0078] In one particular embodiment of the invention, the compositions have shear thinning behavior making it possible also to have good play time properties.

[0079] In one particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention

which has a good play time has a viscosity during application (1000 s ^_1 ) which remains less than 0.25 Pa.s for at least 20 seconds. The measurements of viscosity as a function of the change in stress may be performed according to the protocol defined in the experimental section below.

[0080] For the purposes of the invention, the term "shear-thinning behavior" refers to a composition which leads to a deposit which fluidizes during its application, but remains fluid and does not recover all or part of its initial viscosity, or does so only after a time of at least 20 seconds. During application to the keratin material, notably the skin, under the pressure exerted by the applicator according to the invention, the composition becomes fluidized via the shear effect due to the movement of the application member on the skin. The viscosity of the

composition according to the invention having a shear-thinning nature or behavior may be reversibly lowered when increasing shears are applied to the

composition. Such a composition has different levels of viscosity at low shear (10 ¹ s ¹ ) and high shear (10 ³ s ^-1 ).

[0081 ] Hydrophilic gelling agent

[0082] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "hydrophilic gelling agent" means a compound that is capable of gelling the aqueous phase of the

compositions according to the invention.

[0083] The gelling agent is hydrophilic and is thus present in the aqueous phase of the composition.

[0084] The gelling agent may be water-soluble or water-dispersible. [0085] As stated above, the aqueous phase of a composition according to the invention is gelled with at least one hydrophilic gelling agent.

[0086] The hydrophilic gelling agent may be chosen from synthetic polymeric gelling agents, polymeric gelling agents that are natural or of natural origin, mixed silicates and fumed silicas, and mixtures thereof.

[0087] These hydrophilic gelling agents may be cationic, anionic, amphoteric or

nonionic.

[0088] Preferably, the hydrophilic gelling agent may be chosen from synthetic

polymeric gelling agents.

[0089] The synthetic polymeric hydrophilic gelling agent under consideration

according to the invention may or may not be particulate.

[0090] For the purposes of the invention, the term "particulate" means that the

polymer is in the form of particles, preferably spherical particles.

[0091 ] I. Polymeric gelling agents that are natural or of natural origin

[0092] The polymeric hydrophilic gelling agents that are suitable for use in the

invention may be natural or of natural origin.

[0093] For the purposes of the invention, the term“of natural origin" is intended to denote polymeric gelling agents obtained by modification of natural polymeric gelling agents.

[0094] These gelling agents may be particulate or non-particulate.

[0095] More specifically, these gelling agents fall within the category of

polysaccharides, such as starchy polysaccharides.

[0096] I. A. Starchy polysaccharides

[0097] As representatives of this category, mention may be made most particularly of native starches, modified starches and particulate starches.

[0098] Native starches

[0099] The starches that may be used in the present invention are more particularly macromolecules in the form of polymers consisting of elementary moieties which are anhydroglucose units (dextrose), linked via a(1 ,4) bonds of chemical formula (C6H10O5)n. The number of these moieties and their assembly make it possible to distinguish amylose, a molecule formed from about 600 to 1000 linearly linked glucose molecules, and amylopectin, a polymer branched approximately every 25 glucose residues (a(1 ,6) bond)). The total chain may include between 10 000 and 100 000 glucose residues.

[0100] Starch is described in particular in Kirk-Othmer's Encyclopaedia of Chemical Technology, 3rd edition, volume 21 , pages 492-507, Wiley Interscience, 1983.

[0101 ] The relative proportions of amylose and of amylopectin, and their degree of polymerization, vary as a function of the botanical origin of the starches. On average, a sample of native starch consists of about 25% amylose and 75% amylopectin.

[0102] Occasionally, phytoglycogen is present (between 0% and 20% of the starch), which is an analog of amylopectin but branched every 10 to 15 glucose residues.

[0103] Starch may be in the form of semicrystalline granules: amylopectin is

organized in leaflets, amylose forms a less well organized amorphous zone between the various leaflets.

[0104] Amylose is organized in a straight helix with six glucoses per turn. It

dissociates into assimilable glucose under the action of enzymes, amylases, all the more easily when it is in amylopectin form. Specifically, the helical formation does not promote the accessibility of starch to the enzymes.

[0105] Starches are generally in the form of a white powder, which is insoluble in cold water, of which the elemental particle size ranges from 3 to 100 microns.

[0106] By treating it with hot water, starch paste is obtained. It is exploited in industry for its thickening and gelling properties.

[0107] The botanical origin of the starch molecules used in the present invention may be cereals or tubers. Thus, the starches are chosen, for example, from corn starch, rice starch, cassava starch, barley starch, potato starch, wheat starch, sorghum starch and pea starch.

[0108] The native starches are represented, for example, by the products sold under the names C*Amilogel™, Cargill Gel™, C* Gel™, Cargill Gum™, DryGel™ and C*Pharm Gel™ by the company Cargill, under the name Amidon de Mais by the company Roquette, and under the name Tapioca Pure by the company National Starch.

[0109] Modified starches

[0110] The modified starches used in the composition of the invention may be

modified via one or more of the following reactions: pregelatinization, degradation (acid hydrolysis, oxidation, dextrinization), substitution (esterification,

etherification), crosslinking (esterification), bleaching.

More particularly, these reactions may be performed in the following manner:

. pregelatinization by splitting the starch granules (for example drying and cooking in a drying drum);

. acid hydrolysis giving rise to very rapid retrogradation on cooling;

. dextrinization in acidic medium at high temperature (hydrolysis followed by repolymerization);

. crosslinking with functional agents capable of reacting with the hydroxyl groups of the starch molecules, which will thus bond together (for example with glyceryl and/or phosphate groups);

. esterification in alkaline medium for the grafting of functional groups, notably C1-C6 acyl (acetyl), C1 -C6 hydroxyalkyl (hydroxyethyl, hydroxypropyl), carboxymethyl or octenylsuccinic.

[0111 ] Monostarch phosphates (of the type Am-0-PO-(OX)2), distarch phosphates (of the type Am-O-PO-(OX)-O-Am) or even tristarch phosphates (of the type Am- 0-P0-(0-Am)2) or mixtures thereof may notably be obtained by crosslinking with phosphorus compounds.

[0112] X notably denotes alkali metals (for example sodium or potassium), alkaline- earth metals (for example calcium or magnesium), ammonium salts, amine salts, for instance those of monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, 3- amino-1 ,2-propanediol, or ammonium salts derived from basic amino acids such as lysine, arginine, sarcosine, ornithine or citrulline.

[0113] The phosphorus compounds may be, for example, sodium tripolyphosphate, sodium orthophosphate, phosphorus oxychloride or sodium trimetaphosphate. [0114] The starch molecules may be derived from any plant source of starch, notably such as corn, potato, oat, rice, tapioca, sorghum, barley or wheat. It is also possible to use the hydrolyzates of the starches mentioned above.

[0115] The modified starches are represented, for example, by the products sold under the names C*Tex-lnstant (pregelatinized adipate), C*StabiTex-lnstant (pregelatinized phosphate), C*PolarTex-lnstant (pregelatinized hydroxypropyl), C*Set (acid hydrolysis, oxidation), C*size (oxidation), C*BatterCrisp (oxidation), C*DrySet (dextrinization), C*Tex™ (acetyl distarch adipate), C*PolarTex™

(hydroxypropyl distarch phosphate), C*StabiTex™ (distarch phosphate, acetyl distarch phosphate) by the company Cargill, by distarch phosphates or compounds rich in distarch phosphate such as the product sold under the references Prejel VA-70-T AGGL (gelatinized hydroxypropyl cassava distarch phosphate) or Prejel TK1 (gelatinized cassava distarch phosphate) or Prejel 200 (gelatinized acetyl cassava distarch phosphate) by the company Avebe or Structure Zea from National Starch (gelatinized corn distarch phosphate).

[0116] Use is preferably made of gelatinized corn distarch phosphate, notably of Structure Zea from National Starch.

[0117] Such a gelling agent may be used in a proportion of from 0.1 % to 8% by

weight of solids relative to the total weight of the aqueous phase, notably from 0.1 % to 6% by weight.

[0118] Other polysaccharides

[0119] Among the other polysaccharides that may be used according to the

invention, mention may also be made of chitin (poly-N-acetyl-D-glucosamine, b(1 ,4)-2-acetamido-2-deoxy-D-glucose), chitosan and derivatives (chitosan-beta- glycerophosphate, carboxymethylchitin, etc.) such as those sold by the company France-Chitine.

[0120] II. Synthetic polymeric gelling agents

[0121 ] For the purposes of the invention, the term "synthetic" means that the polymer is neither naturally existing nor a derivative of a polymer of natural origin.

[0122] As emerges from the text hereinbelow, the synthetic polymeric hydrophilic gelling agent is advantageously chosen from crosslinked acrylic homopolymers or copolymers; associative polymers, in particular associative polymers of polyurethane type; polyacrylamides and crosslinked and/or neutralized 2- acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid polymers and copolymers; modified or unmodified carboxyvinyl polymers, and mixtures thereof, notably as defined below.

[0123] Particulate synthetic polymeric gelling agents

[0124] They are preferably chosen from crosslinked polymers.

[0125] They may notably be crosslinked acrylic homopolymers or copolymers, which are preferably partially neutralized or neutralized, and which are in particulate form.

[0126] According to one embodiment, the particulate gelling agent according to the present invention is chosen from crosslinked sodium polyacrylates. Preferably, it has in the dry or non-hydrated state a mean size of less than or equal to 100 pm and preferably less than or equal to 50 pm. The mean size of the particles corresponds to the mass-average diameter (D50) measured by laser particle size analysis or another equivalent method known to those skilled in the art.

[0127] Thus, preferably, the particulate gelling agent according to the present

invention is chosen from crosslinked sodium polyacrylates, preferably in the form of particles with a mean size (or mean diameter) of less than or equal to 100 microns, more preferably in the form of spherical particles.

[0128] As examples of crosslinked sodium polyacrylates, mention may be made of those sold under the brand names Octacare X100®, X110® and RM100® by the company Avecia, those sold under the names Flocare GB300® and Flosorb 500® by the company SNF, those sold under the names Luquasorb 1003®, Luquasorb 1010®, Luquasorb 1280® and Luquasorb 1110® by the company BASF, those sold under the names Water Lock G400® and G430® (INCI name: Acrylamide/Sodium acrylate copolymer) by the company Grain Processing.

[0129] Mention may also be made of crosslinked polyacrylate microspheres, for instance those sold under the name Aquakeep® 10 SH NF by the company Sumitomo Seika. [0130] Such gelling agents may be used in a proportion of from 0.1 % to 5% by weight of solids relative to the total weight of the aqueous phase, notably from 0.3% to 2% by weight and in particular in a proportion of about from 0.5% to 1.7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the aqueous phase.

[0131 ] B. Non-particulate synthetic polymeric gelling agents

This family of gelling agents may be detailed under the following subfamilies:

1. Associative polymers,

2. Polyacrylamides and crosslinked and/or neutralized 2-acrylamido-2- methylpropanesulfonic acid polymers and copolymers, and

3. Modified or unmodified carboxyvinyl polymers.

[0132] B.1 Associative polymers

[0133] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "associative polymer" means any amphiphilic polymer including in its structure at least one fatty chain and at least one hydrophilic portion. The associative polymers in accordance with the present invention may be anionic, cationic, nonionic or amphoteric.

[0134] Associative anionic polymers

[0135] Among the associative anionic polymers that may be mentioned are those including at least one hydrophilic unit, and at least one fatty-chain allyl ether unit, more particularly those of which the hydrophilic unit is formed by an unsaturated ethylenic anionic monomer, more particularly by a vinylcarboxylic acid and most particularly by an acrylic acid or a methacrylic acid or mixtures thereof, and of which the fatty-chain allyl ether unit corresponds to the monomer of formula (I) below:

[0136] [Chem. 1 ]

CH2 = C(R')CH20BnR (I)

in which R’ denotes H or CH3, B denotes an ethylenoxy radical, n is zero or denotes an integer ranging from 1 to 100, R denotes a hydrocarbon-based radical chosen from alkyl, arylalkyl, aryl, alkylaryl and cycloalkyl radicals, comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 24 carbon atoms and even more particularly from 12 to 18 carbon atoms. Anionic amphiphilic polymers of this type are described and prepared according to an emulsion polymerization process in patent EP 0 216 479.

Among the associative anionic polymers that may also be mentioned are maleic anhydride/C3o-C38 a-olefin/alkyl maleate terpolymers, such as the product (maleic anhydride/C3o-C38 a-olefin/isopropyl maleate copolymer) sold under the name Performa V 1608® by the company Newphase Technologies.

Among the associative anionic polymers, mention may be made, according to a preferred embodiment, of copolymers including among their monomers an a,b- monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid and an ester of an a,b- monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid and of an oxyalkylenated fatty alcohol.

[0137] Preferentially, these compounds also comprise as monomer an ester of an a,b-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid and of a C1-C4 alcohol.

[0138] Examples of compounds of this type that may be mentioned include Aculyn 22® sold by the company Rohm & Haas, which is a methacrylic acid/ethyl acrylate/oxyalkylenated stearyl methacrylate (comprising 20 EO units) terpolymer or Aculyn 28® (methacrylic acid/ethyl acrylate/oxyethylenated behenyl methacrylate (25 EO) terpolymer).

[0139] Associative anionic polymers that may also be mentioned include anionic polymers including at least one hydrophilic unit of olefinic unsaturated carboxylic acid type, and at least one hydrophobic unit exclusively of (Cio-C3o)alkyl ester of unsaturated carboxylic acid type. Examples that may be mentioned include the anionic polymers described and prepared according to patents US 3 915 921 and US 4 509 949.

[0140] Associative anionic polymers that may also be mentioned include anionic terpolymers.

[0141 ] The anionic terpolymer used according to the invention is a linear or branched and/or crosslinked terpolymer, of at least one monomer (1 ) bearing an acid function in free form, which is partially or totally salified with a nonionic monomer (2) chosen from N,N-dimethylacrylamide and 2-hydroxyethyl acrylate and at least one polyoxyethylenated alkyl acrylate monomer (3) of formula (I) below: [0142] [Chem. 2]

in which Ri represents a hydrogen atom, R represents a linear or branched C2-C8 alkyl radical and n represents a number ranging from 1 to 10.

[0143] The term "branched polymer" denotes a non-linear polymer which bears

pendent chains so as to obtain, when this polymer is dissolved in water, a high degree of entanglement leading to very high viscosities, at a low speed gradient.

[0144] The term "crosslinked polymer" denotes a nonlinear polymer which is in the form of a three-dimensional network that is insoluble in water but swellable in water, leading to the production of a chemical gel.

[0145] The acid function of the monomer (1 ) is notably a sulfonic acid or phosphonic acid function, said functions being in free or partially or totally salified form.

[0146] The monomer (1 ) may be chosen from styrenesulfonic acid, ethylsulfonic acid and 2-methyl-2-[(1 -oxo-2-propenyl)amino]-1 -propanesulfonic acid (also known as acryloyldimethyl taurate), in free or partially or totally salified form. It is present in the anionic terpolymer preferably in molar proportions of between 5 mol% and 95 mol% and more particularly between 10 mol% and 90 mol%. The monomer (1 ) will more particularly be 2-methyl-2-[(1 -oxo-2-propenyl)amino]-1 -propanesulfonic acid in free or partially or totally salified form.

[0147] The acid function in partially or totally salified form will preferably be an alkali metal salt such as a sodium or potassium salt, an ammonium salt, an amino alcohol salt such as a monoethanolamine salt, or an amino acid salt such as a lysine salt.

[0148] The monomer (2) is preferably present in the anionic terpolymer in molar proportions of between 4.9 mol% and 90 mol%, more particularly between 9.5 mol% and 85 mol% and even more particularly between 19.5 mol% and 75 mol%. [0149] In formula (I), examples of linear C8-C16 alkyl radicals that may be mentioned include octyl, decyl, undecyl, tridecyl, tetradecyl, pentadecyl and hexadecyl.

[0150] In formula (I), examples of branched C8-C16 alkyl radicals that may be

mentioned include 2-ethylhexyl, 2-propylheptyl, 2-butyloctyl, 2-pentylnonyl, 2- hexyldecyl, 4-methylpentyl, 5-methylhexyl, 6-methylheptyl, 15-methylpentadecyl, 16-methylheptadecyl and 2-hexyloctyl.

[0151 ] According to a particular form of the invention, in formula (I), R denotes a C12- C16 alkyl radical.

[0152] According to a particular form of the invention, in formula (I), n ranges from 3 to 5.

[0153] Tetraethoxylated lauryl acrylate will more particularly be used as monomer of formula (I).

[0154] The monomer (3) of formula (I) is preferably present in the anionic terpolymer in molar proportions of between 0.1 mol% and 10 mol% and more particularly between 0.5 mol% and 5 mol%.

[0155] According to a particular mode of the invention, the anionic terpolymer is

crosslinked and/or branched with a diethylenic or polyethylenic compound in the proportion expressed relative to the total amount of monomers used, from 0.005 mol% to 1 mol%, preferably from 0.01 mol% to 0.5 mol% and more particularly from 0.01 mol% to 0.25 mol%.

[0156] The crosslinking agent and/or branching agent is preferably chosen from

ethylene glycol dimethacrylate, diallyloxyacetic acid or a salt thereof, such as sodium diallyloxyacetate, tetraallyloxyethane, ethylene glycol diacrylate, diallylurea, triallylamine, trimethylolpropane triacrylate and

methylenebis(acrylamide), or mixtures thereof.

[0157] The anionic terpolymer may contain additives such as complexing agents, transfer agents or chain-limiting agents.

[0158] Use will be made more particularly of an anionic terpolymer of 2-methyl-2-[(1 - oxo-2-propenyl)amino]-1 -propanesulfonic acid partially or totally salified in the form of ammonium salt, N,N-dimethylacrylamide and tetraethoxylated lauryl acrylate, crosslinked with trimethylolpropane triacrylate, of INCI name Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, such as the product sold under the trade name Sepimax Zen® by the company SEPPIC.

[0159] Cationic associative polymers

[0160] Cationic associative polymers that may be mentioned include polyacrylates bearing amine side groups.

[0161 ] The polyacrylates bearing quaternized or non-quaternized amine side groups contain, for example, hydrophobic groups of the type such as steareth-20 (polyoxyethylenated (20) stearyl alcohol).

[0162] Examples of polyacrylates bearing amine side chains that may be mentioned are the polymers 8781 -121 B or 9492-103 from the company National Starch.

[0163] Nonionic associative polymers

[0164] The nonionic associative polymers may be chosen from:

[0165] - copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of fatty-chain hydrophobic monomers;

[0166] - copolymers of C1-C6 alkyl methacrylates or acrylates and of amphiphilic monomers including at least one fatty chain;

[0167] - copolymers of hydrophilic methacrylates or acrylates and of hydrophobic monomers including at least one fatty chain, for instance the polyethylene glycol methacrylate/lauryl methacrylate copolymer;

[0168] - associative polyurethanes.

[0169] Associative polyurethanes are nonionic block copolymers including in the chain both hydrophilic blocks usually of polyoxyethylene nature (the

polyurethanes may then be referred to as polyether polyurethanes), and hydrophobic blocks that may be aliphatic sequences alone and/or cycloaliphatic and/or aromatic sequences.

[0170] In particular, these polymers include at least two hydrocarbon-based lipophilic chains containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, separated by a hydrophilic block, the hydrocarbon-based chains possibly being pendent chains or chains at the end of the hydrophilic block. In particular, it is possible for one or more side chains to be envisaged. In addition, the polymer may include a hydrocarbon- based chain at one end or at both ends of a hydrophilic block. [0171 ] Associative polyurethanes may be block polymers in triblock or multiblock form. The hydrophobic blocks may thus be at each end of the chain (for example: triblock copolymer containing a hydrophilic central block) or distributed both at the ends and in the chain (for example: multiblock copolymer). These polymers may also be graft polymers or star polymers. Preferably, the associative

polyurethanes are triblock copolymers in which the hydrophilic block is a polyoxyethylene chain including from 50 to 1000 oxyethylene groups. In general, associative polyurethanes include a urethane bond between the hydrophilic blocks, whence arises the name.

[0172] According to one preferred embodiment, a nonionic associative polymer of polyurethane type is used as gelling agent.

[0173] As examples of nonionic fatty-chain polyurethane polyethers that may be

used in the invention, it is also possible to use Rheolate® FX 1100 (Steareth- 100/PEG 136/HDI (hexamethyl diisocyanate) copolymer), Rheolate® 205 containing a urea function, sold by the company Elementis, or else Rheolate® 208, 204 or 212, and also Acrysol® RM 184 or Acrysol® RM 2020.

[0174] Mention may also be made of the product Elfacos® T210 containing a C12-C14 alkyl chain, and the product Elfacos® T212 containing a C16-18 alkyl chain (PPG- 14 Palmeth-60 Hexyl Dicarbamate), from Akzo.

[0175] The product DW 1206B® from Rohm & Haas containing a C20 alkyl chain and a urethane bond, sold at a solids content of 20% in water, may also be used.

[0176] Use may also be made of solutions or dispersions of these polymers, notably in water or in aqueous-alcoholic medium. Examples of such polymers that may be mentioned are Rheolate® 255, Rheolate® 278 and Rheolate® 244 sold by the company Elementis. The products DW 1206F® and DW 1206J® sold by the company Rohm & Haas may also be used.

[0177] The associative polyurethanes that may be used according to the invention are in particular those described in the article by G. Fonnum, J. Bakke and Fk. Hansen, Colloid Polym. Sci, 271 , 380-389 (1993).

[0178] Even more particularly, according to the invention, use may also be made of an associative polyurethane that may be obtained by polycondensation of at least three compounds comprising (i) at least one polyethylene glycol comprising from 150 to 180 mol of ethylene oxide, (ii) stearyl alcohol or decyl alcohol, and (iii) at least one diisocyanate.

[0179] Such polyurethane polyethers are sold notably by the company Rohm & Haas under the names Aculyn® 46 and Aculyn® 44. Aculyn® 46 is a polycondensate of polyethylene glycol containing 150 or 180 mol of ethylene oxide, of stearyl alcohol and of methylenebis(4-cyclohexyl isocyanate) (SMDI), at 15% by weight in a matrix of maltodextrin (4%) and water (81 %), and Aculyn® 44 is a

polycondensate of polyethylene glycol containing 150 or 180 mol of ethylene oxide, of decyl alcohol and of methylenebis(4-cyclohexyl isocyanate) (SMDI), at 35% by weight in a mixture of propylene glycol (39%) and water (26%).

[0180] Use may also be made of solutions or dispersions of these polymers, notably in water or in aqueous-alcoholic medium. Examples of such polymers that may be mentioned include SER AD FX1010®, SER AD FX1035® and SER AD 1070® from the company Elementis, and Rheolate® 255, Rheolate® 278 and

Rheolate® 244 sold by the company Elementis. Use may also be made of the products Aculyn® 44, Aculyn® 46, DW 1206F® and DW 1206J®, and also Acrysol® RM 184 from the company Rohm & Haas, or alternatively Borchigel LW 44® from the company Borchers, and mixtures thereof.

[0181 ] Amphoteric associative polymers

[0182] Among the associative amphoteric polymers of the invention, mention may be made of crosslinked or non-crosslinked, branched or unbranched amphoteric polymers, which may be obtained by copolymerization:

[0183] 1 ) of at least one monomer of formula (IVa) or (IVb):

[0184] [Chem. 3]

[Chem. 4] x

R -C - _r C Z— (C HL ) - N (IVb)

R ₅ O R ₇ in which R ₄ and R ₅ , which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical,

R ₆ , R7 and Re, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched alkyl radical containing from 1 to 30 carbon atoms;

Z represents an NH group or an oxygen atom;

n is an integer from 2 to 5;

A- is an anion derived from an organic or mineral acid, such as a methosulfate anion or a halide such as chloride or bromide;

2) of at least one monomer of formula (V):

[Chem. 5]

[0185] in which R9 and R10, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical;

[0186] Zi represents a group OH or a group NHC(CH ₃ ) ₂ CH ₂ S0 ₃ H;

[0187] 3) of at least one monomer of formula (VI):

[0188] [Chem. 6] in which R ₉ and R ₁₀ , which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical, X denotes an oxygen or nitrogen atom and Rn denotes a linear or branched alkyl radical containing from 1 to 30 carbon atoms;

4) optionally at least one crosslinking or branching agent; at least one of the monomers of formula (IVa), (IVb) or (VI) including at least one fatty chain containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and said compounds of the monomers of formulae (IVa), (IVb), (V) and (VI) possibly being quaternized, for example with a C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl halide or a C ₁ -C ₄ dialkyl sulfate. [0189] The monomers of formulae (IVa) and (IVb) of the present invention are preferably chosen from the group constituted of:

[0190] - dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate, dimethylaminoethyl acrylate,

[0191 ] - diethylaminoethyl methacrylate, diethylaminoethyl acrylate,

[0192] - dimethylaminopropyl methacrylate, dimethylaminopropyl acrylate,

[0193] - dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide, dimethylaminopropylacrylamide,

[0194] which are optionally quaternized, for example with a C1-C4 alkyl halide or a C1-C4 dialkyl sulfate.

[0195] More particularly, the monomer of formula (IVa) is chosen from

acrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride and

methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride.

[0196] The compounds of formula (V) of the present invention are preferably chosen from the group formed by acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, 2- methylcrotonic acid, 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid and 2- methacrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid. More particularly, the monomer of formula (V) is acrylic acid.

[0197] The monomers of formula (VI) of the present invention are preferably chosen from the group formed by C12-C22 and more particularly C16-C18 alkyl acrylates or methacrylates.

[0198] The crosslinking or branching agent is preferably chosen from N,N'- methylenebisacrylamide, triallylmethylammonium chloride, allyl methacrylate, n- methylolacrylamide, polyethylene glycol dimethacrylates, ethylene glycol dimethacrylate, diethylene glycol dimethacrylate, 1 ,6-hexanediol dimethacrylate and allyl sucrose.

[0199] The polymers according to the invention may also contain other monomers such as nonionic monomers and in particular such as C1-C4 alkyl acrylates or methacrylates.

[0200] The ratio of the number of cationic charges/anionic charges in these

amphoteric polymers is preferably equal to about 1. [0201 ] The weight-average molecular weights of the associative amphoteric polymers have a weight-average molecular mass of greater than 500, preferably between 10 000 and 10 000 000 and even more preferentially between 100 000 and 8 000 000.

[0202] Preferably, the associative amphoteric polymers of the invention contain from 1 mol% to 99 mol%, more preferentially from 20 mol% to 95 mol% and even more preferentially from 25 mol% to 75 mol% of compound(s) of formula (IVa) or (IVb). They also preferably contain from 1 mol% to 80 mol%, more preferentially from 5 mol% to 80 mol% and even more preferentially from 25 mol% to 75 mol% of compound(s) of formula (V). The content of compound(s) of formula (VI) is preferably between 0.1 mol% and 70 mol%, more preferentially between 1 mol% and 50 mol% and even more preferentially between 1 mol% and 10 mol%. The crosslinking or branching agent, when it is present, is preferably between 0.0001 mol% and 1 mol% and even more preferentially between 0.0001 mol% and 0.1 mol%.

Preferably, the mole ratio between the compound(s) of formula (IVa) or (IVb) and the compound(s) of formula (V) ranges from 20:80 to 95:5 and more preferentially from

25:75 to 75:25.

[0203] The associative amphoteric polymers according to the invention are

described, for example, in patent application WO 98/44012.

[0204] The amphoteric polymers that are particularly preferred according to the

invention are chosen from acrylic acid/acrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride/stearyl methacrylate copolymers.

[0205] According to a preferred embodiment, the associative polymer is chosen from nonionic associative polymers and more particularly from associative

polyurethanes, such as Steareth-100/P EG-136/HD I Copolymer sold under the name Rheolate FX 1100® by Elementis.

[0206] Such an associative polymer is advantageously used in a proportion of from 0.1 % to 8% by weight of solids and preferably between 0.5% and 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the aqueous phase. [0207] B.2 Polyacrylamides and crosslinked and/or neutralized 2-acrylamido-2- methylpropanesulfonic acid polymers and copolymers

[0208] The polymers used that are suitable as aqueous gelling agent for the

invention may be crosslinked or non-crosslinked homopolymers or copolymers including at least the 2-acrylamidomethylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS®) monomer, in a form partially or totally neutralized with a mineral base other than aqueous ammonia, such as sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide.

[0209] They are preferably totally or almost totally neutralized, i.e. at least 90%

neutralized.

[0210] These AMPS® polymers according to the invention may be crosslinked or non-crosslinked.

[0211 ] When the polymers are crosslinked, the crosslinking agents may be chosen from the polyolefinically unsaturated compounds commonly used for crosslinking polymers obtained by radical polymerization.

[0212] Examples of crosslinking agents that may be mentioned include

divinylbenzene, diallyl ether, dipropylene glycol diallyl ether, polyglycol diallyl ethers, triethylene glycol divinyl ether, hydroquinone diallyl ether, ethylene glycol or tetraethylene glycol di(meth)acrylate, trimethylolpropane triacrylate, methylenebisacrylamide, methylenebismethacrylamide, triallylamine, triallyl cyanurate, diallyl maleate, tetraallylethylenediamine, tetraallyloxyethane, trimethylolpropane diallyl ether, allyl (meth)acrylate, allylic ethers of alcohols of the sugar series, or other allyl or vinyl ethers of polyfunctional alcohols, and also the allylic esters of phosphoric and/or vinylphosphonic acid derivatives, or mixtures of these compounds.

[0213] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the crosslinking agent is chosen from methylenebisacrylamide, allyl methacrylate and

trimethylolpropane triacrylate (TMPTA). The degree of crosslinking generally ranges from 0.01 mol% to 10 mol% and more particularly from 0.2 mol% to 2 mol% relative to the polymer.

[0214] The AMPS® polymers that are suitable for use in the invention are water- soluble or water-dispersible. In this case, they are: [0215] - either "homopolymers" including only AMPS® monomers and, if they are crosslinked, one or more crosslinking agents such as those defined above;

[0216] - or copolymers obtained from AMPS® and from one or more hydrophilic or hydrophobic ethylenically unsaturated monomers and, if they are crosslinked, one or more crosslinking agents such as those defined above.

[0217] When said copolymers include hydrophobic ethylenically unsaturated

monomers, these monomers do not include a fatty chain and are preferably present in small amounts.

[0218] For the purpose of the present invention, the term "fatty chain" means any hydrocarbon-based chain including at least 7 carbon atoms.

[0219] The term "water-soluble or water-dispersible" means polymers which, when introduced into an aqueous phase at 25°C, at a mass concentration equal to 1 %, make it possible to obtain a macroscopically homogeneous and transparent solution, i.e. a solution with a maximum light transmittance value, at a wavelength equal to 500 nm, through a sample 1 cm thick, of at least 60% and preferably of at least 70%.

[0220] The "homopolymers" according to the invention are preferably crosslinked and neutralized, and they may be obtained according to the preparation process comprising the following steps:

[0221 ] -(a) the monomer such as AMPS® is dispersed or dissolved in free form in a solution of tert-butanol or of water and tert-butanol;

[0222] (b) the monomer solution or dispersion obtained in (a) is neutralized with one or more mineral or organic bases, preferably aqueous ammonia NFh, in an amount making it possible to obtain a degree of neutralization of the sulfonic acid functions of the polymer ranging from 90% to 100%;

[0223] -(c) the crosslinking monomer(s) are added to the solution or dispersion

obtained in (b);

[0224] (d) a standard free-radical polymerization is performed in the presence of free-radical initiators at a temperature ranging from 10 to 150°C; the polymer precipitating in the tert-butanol-based solution or dispersion. [0225] The water-soluble or water-dispersible AMPS® copolymers according to the invention contain water-soluble ethylenically unsaturated monomers, hydrophobic monomers, or mixtures thereof.

[0226] The water-soluble comonomers may be ionic or nonionic.

[0227] Among the ionic water-soluble comonomers, examples that may be

mentioned include the following compounds, and salts thereof:

[0228] - (meth)acrylic acid,

[0229] - styrenesulfonic acid,

[0230] - vinylsulfonic acid and (meth)allylsulfonic acid,

[0231 ] - vinylphosphonic acid,

[0232] - maleic acid,

[0233] - itaconic acid,

[0234] - crotonic acid,

[0235] - water-soluble vinyl monomers of formula (A) below:

[0236] [Chem. 7]

in which:

- Ri is chosen from H, -Chh, -C2H5 and -C3H7;

- Xi is chosen from:

- alkyl oxides of type -OR2 where R2 is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, substituted with at least one sulfonic (-SO3-) and/or sulfate (-SO4-) and/or phosphate (-PO4H2-) group.

[0237] Among the nonionic water-soluble comonomers, examples that may be

mentioned include:

[0238] - (meth)acrylamide, [0239] - N-vinylacetamide and N-methyl-N-vinylacetamide,

[0240] - N-vinylformamide and N-methyl-N-vinylformamide,

[0241 ] - maleic anhydride,

[0242] - vinylamine,

[0243] - N-vinyllactams including a cyclic alkyl group containing from 4 to 9 carbon atoms, such as N-vinylpyrrolidone, N-butyrolactam and N-vinylcaprolactam,

[0244] - vinyl alcohol of formula CH2=CHOH,

[0245] - the water-soluble vinyl monomers of formula (B) below:

[0246] [Chem. 8]

[0247] in which:

[0248] - R3 is chosen from H, -CH3, -C ₂ H5 and -C3H7;

[0249] - X2 is chosen from alkyl oxides of the type -OR ₄ where R ₄ is a linear or

branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, optionally substituted with a halogen (iodine, bromine, chlorine or fluorine) atom; a hydroxyl (-OH) group; ether.

[0250] Mention is made, for example, of glycidyl (meth)acrylate, hydroxyethyl

methacrylate, and (meth)acrylates of ethylene glycol, of diethylene glycol or of polyalkylene glycol.

[0251 ] Among the hydrophobic comonomers not bearing a fatty chain, examples that may be mentioned include:

[0252] - styrene and derivatives thereof, such as 4-butylstyrene, a-methylstyrene and vinyltoluene;

[0253] - vinyl acetate of formula CH2=CH-OCOCH3;

[0254] - vinyl ethers of formula CH2=CHOR in which R is a linear or branched,

saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based radical containing from 1 to 6 carbons; [0255] - acrylonitrile;

[0256] - caprolactone;

[0257] - vinyl chloride and vinylidene chloride;

[0258] - silicone derivatives, which, after polymerization, result in silicone polymers such as methacryloxypropyltris(trimethylsiloxy)silane and silicone

methacrylamides;

[0259] - hydrophobic vinyl monomers of formula (C) below:

[0260] [Chem. 9]

[0261 ] in which:

[0262] - R4 is chosen from H, -CH3, -C2H5 and -C3H7;

[0263] - X3 is chosen from:

[0264] - alkyl oxides of the type -OR5 where R5 is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms.

[0265] Mention is made, for example, of methyl methacrylate, ethyl methacrylate, n- butyl (meth)acrylate, tert-butyl (meth)acrylate, cyclohexyl acrylate, isobornyl acrylate and 2-ethylhexyl acrylate.

[0266] The water-soluble or water-dispersible AMPS® polymers of the invention preferably have a molar mass ranging from 50 000 g/mol to 10 000 000 g/mol, preferably from 80 000 g/mol to 8 000 000 g/mol, and even more preferably from 100 000 g/mol to 7 000 000 g/mol.

[0267] As water-soluble or water-dispersible AMPS® homopolymers suitable for use in the invention, mention may be made, for example, of crosslinked or non- crosslinked polymers of sodium acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonate, such as that used in the commercial product Simulgel 800® (CTFA name: Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate), crosslinked ammonium acrylamido-2- methylpropanesulfonate polymers (INCI name: Ammonium Polydimethyltauramide) such as those described in patent EP 0 815 928 B1 and such as the product sold under the trade name Hostacerin AMPS® by the company Clariant.

[0268] As water-soluble or water-dispersible AMPS copolymers in accordance with the invention, examples that may be mentioned include:

[0269] - crosslinked acrylamide/sodium acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonate

copolymers, such as that used in the commercial product Sepigel 305® (CTFA name: Polyacrylamide/Ci3-Cu isoparaffin/laureth-7) or that used in the commercial product sold under the name Simulgel 600® (CTFA name:

Acrylamide/sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate

copolymer/isohexadecane/polysorbate-80) by the company SEPPIC;

[0270] - copolymers of AMPS® and of vinylpyrrolidone or vinylformamide, such as that used in the commercial product sold under the name Aristoflex AVC® by the company Clariant (CTFA name: Ammonium AcryloyldimethyltaurateA/P copolymer) but neutralized with sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide;

[0271 ] - copolymers of AMPS® and of sodium acrylate, for instance the

AMPS/sodium acrylate copolymer, such as that used in the commercial product sold under the name Simulgel EG® by the company SEPPIC or under the trade name Sepinov EM (CTFA name: Flydroxyethyl acrylate/Sodium

acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer);

[0272] - copolymers of AMPS® and of hydroxyethyl acrylate, for instance the

AMPS®/hydroxyethyl acrylate copolymer, such as that used in the commercial product sold under the name Simulgel NS® by the company SEPPIC (CTFA name: Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer (and) squalane (and) polysorbate 60), or such as the product sold under the name Sodium acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonate/hydroxyethyl acrylate copolymer, such as the commercial product Sepinov EMT 10® (INCI name: Hydroxyethyl acrylate/Sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer).

[0273] As preferred water-soluble or water-dispersible AMPS copolymers in

accordance with the invention, mention may be made of copolymers of AMPS® and of hydroxyethyl acrylate. [0274] In general, an aqueous phase according to the invention may comprise from 0.1 % to 10%, preferably from 0.2% to 8%, more preferentially from 0.5% to 6% and even from 0.5% to 5% by weight of solids of polyacrylamide(s) and/or of crosslinked and/or neutralized 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid polymer(s) and copolymer(s) relative to its total weight.

[0275] B.3 Modified or unmodified carboxyvinyl polymers

[0276] The modified or unmodified carboxyvinyl polymers may be copolymers

derived from the polymerization of at least one monomer (a) chosen from a,b- ethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acids or esters thereof, with at least one ethylenically unsaturated monomer (b) including a hydrophobic group.

[0277] The term "copolymers" means both copolymers obtained from two types of monomer and those obtained from more than two types of monomer, such as terpolymers obtained from three types of monomer.

[0278] Their chemical structure more particularly comprises at least one hydrophilic unit and at least one hydrophobic unit. The term "hydrophobic group or unit" means a radical with a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon- based chain, comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 30 carbon atoms and more preferentially from 18 to 30 carbon atoms.

[0279] Preferably, these copolymers are chosen from copolymers derived from the polymerization:

[0280] - of at least one monomer of formula (1 ) below:

[0281 ] [Chem. 10]

[0282] in which Ri denotes H or Chh or C2H5, i.e. acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or ethacrylic acid monomers, and

[0283] - of at least one monomer of unsaturated carboxylic acid (Cio-C ₃ o)alkyl ester type corresponding to the monomer of formula (2) below:

[0284] [Chem. 11 ]

[0285] in which R2 denotes H or CH3 or C2H5 (i.e. acrylate, methacrylate or

ethacrylate units) and preferably H (acrylate units) or CH3 (methacrylate units), R3 denoting a C10-C30 and preferably C12-C22 alkyl radical.

[0286] The unsaturated carboxylic acid (C10-C30)alkyl esters are preferably chosen from lauryl acrylate, stearyl acrylate, decyl acrylate, isodecyl acrylate and dodecyl acrylate, and the corresponding methacrylates, such as lauryl methacrylate, stearyl methacrylate, decyl methacrylate, isodecyl methacrylate and dodecyl methacrylate, and mixtures thereof.

[0287] According to a preferred embodiment, these polymers are crosslinked.

[0288] Among the copolymers of this type that will be used more particularly are

polymers derived from the polymerization of a monomer mixture comprising:

[0289] - essentially acrylic acid,

[0290] - an ester of formula (2) described above and in which R2 denotes H or CH3, R3 denoting an alkyl radical containing from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and

[0291 ] - a crosslinking agent, which is a well-known copolymerizable unsaturated polyethylenic monomer, for instance diallyl phthalate, allyl (meth)acrylate, divinylbenzene, (poly)ethylene glycol dimethacrylate and

methylenebisacrylamide.

[0292] Among the copolymers of this type, use will be made more particularly of

those formed from 95% to 60% by weight of acrylic acid (hydrophilic unit), 4% to 40% by weight of C10-C30 alkyl acrylate (hydrophobic unit) and 0% to 6% by weight of crosslinking polymerizable monomer, or alternatively those formed from 98% to 96% by weight of acrylic acid (hydrophilic unit), 1 % to 4% by weight of C10-C30 alkyl acrylate (hydrophobic unit) and 0.1 % to 0.6% by weight of crosslinking polymerizable monomer such as those described previously.

[0293] Among said abovementioned polymers, the ones that are most particularly preferred according to the present invention are acrylate/C10-C30-alkyl acrylate copolymers (INCI name: Acrylates/C 10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer) such as the products sold by the company Lubrizol under the trade names Pemulen® TR- 1 , Pemulen® TR-2, Carbopol® 1382, Carbopol® EDT 2020 and Carbopol Ultrez 20 Polymer®, and even more preferentially Pemulen® TR-2.

[0294] Among the modified or unmodified carboxyvinyl polymers, mention may also be made of sodium polyacrylates such as those sold under the name Cosmedia SP® containing 90% solids and 10% water, or Cosmedia SPL® as an inverse emulsion containing about 60% solids, an oil (hydrogenated polydecene) and a surfactant (PPG-5 Laureth-5), both sold by the company Cognis.

[0295] Mention may also be made of partially neutralized sodium polyacrylates that are in the form of an inverse emulsion comprising at least one polar oil, for example the product sold under the name Luvigel® EM by the company BASF.

[0296] The modified or unmodified carboxyvinyl polymers may also be chosen from crosslinked (meth)acrylic acid homopolymers.

[0297] For the purposes of the present patent application, the term "(meth)acrylic" means "acrylic or methacrylic".

[0298] Examples that may be mentioned include the products sold by Lubrizol under the names Carbopol® 910, 934, 940, 941 , 934 P, 980, 981 , 2984, 5984 and Carbopol Ultrez 10 Polymer®, or by 3V-Sigma under the name Synthalen® K, Synthalen® L or Synthalen® M.

[0299] Among the modified or unmodified carboxyvinyl polymers, mention may be made in particular of Carbopol (CTFA name: Carbomer) and Pemulen® (CTFA name: Acrylates/C 10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer) sold by the company Lubrizol.

[0300] The modified or unmodified carboxyvinyl polymers may be present in a

proportion of from 0.1 % to 10% by weight of solids relative to the weight of the aqueous phase, in particular from 0.3% to 8% by weight and preferably between 0.4% and 6% by weight, relative to the weight of the aqueous phase.

[0301 ] Advantageously, a composition according to the invention comprises a

polymeric hydrophilic gelling agent chosen from crosslinked and/or neutralized 2- acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid copolymers. [0302] According to another preferred variant, the synthetic polymeric hydrophilic gelling agent is a copolymer of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid and of hydroxyethyl acrylate.

[0303] III. Other hydrophilic gelling agents

[0304] These gelling agents are more particularly chosen from mixed silicates and fumed silicas.

[0305] III. A. Mixed silicate

[0306] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "mixed silicate" means all silicates of natural or synthetic origin containing several (two or more) types of cations chosen from alkali metals (for example Na, Li, K) or alkaline-earth metals (for example Be, Mg, Ca), transition metals and aluminium.

[0307] According to a particular embodiment, the mixed silicate(s) are in the form of solid particles containing at least 10% by weight of at least one silicate relative to the total weight of the particles. In the rest of the present description, these particles are referred to as "silicate particles".

[0308] Preferably, the silicate particles contain less than 1 % by weight of aluminum relative to the total weight of the particles. Even more preferably, they contain from 0 to 1 % by weight of aluminium relative to the total weight of the particles.

[0309] Preferably, the silicate particles contain at least 50% by weight of silicate and better still at least 70% by weight relative to the total weight of the particles.

Particles containing at least 90% by weight of silicates, relative to the total weight of the particles, are particularly preferred.

[0310] In particular, it is an alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, aluminium or iron silicate or mixture of silicates.

[0311 ] Preferably, it is sodium, magnesium and/or lithium silicate.

[0312] To ensure good cosmetic properties, these silicates are generally in a finely divided form, and in particular in the form of particles with a mean size ranging from 2 nm to 1 pm (from 2 nm to 1000 nm), preferably from 5 nm to 600 nm and even more preferentially from 20 to 250 nm. [0313] The silicate particles may have any form, for example the form of spheres, flakes, needles, platelets, discs, leaflets, or totally random forms. Preferably, the silicate particles are in the form of discs or leaflets.

[0314] Thus, the term "mean size" of the particles means the numerical mean size of the largest dimension (length) that it is possible to measure between two diametrically opposite points on an individual particle. The size may be

determined, for example, by transmission electron microscopy or by measuring the specific surface area via the BET method or with a laser particle size analyzer.

[0315] When the particles are in the form of discs or leaflets, they generally have a thickness ranging from about 0.5 to 5 nm.

[0316] The silicate particles may consist of an alloy with metal or metalloid oxides, obtained, for example, by thermal melting of the various constituents thereof. When the particles also comprise such a metal or metalloid oxide, this oxide is preferably chosen from silicon, boron or aluminum oxide.

[0317] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the silicates are

phyllosilicates, namely silicates having a structure in which the Si04 tetrahedra are organized in leaflets between which the metal cations are enclosed.

[0318] The mixed silicates that are suitable for use in the invention may be chosen, for example, from montmorillonites, hectorites, bentonites, beidellite and saponites. According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the mixed silicates used are more particularly chosen from hectorites and bentonites, and better still from laponites.

[0319] A family of silicates that is particularly preferred in the compositions of the present invention is thus the laponite family. Laponites are sodium magnesium silicates also possibly containing lithium, which have a layer structure similar to that of montmorillonites. Laponite is the synthetic form of the natural mineral known as hectorite. The synthetic origin of this family of silicates is of

considerable advantage over the natural form, since it allows good control of the composition of the product. In addition, laponites have the advantage of having a particle size that is much smaller than that of natural hectorite and bentonite. [0320] Laponites that may notably be mentioned include the products sold under the following names: Laponite® XLS, Laponite® XLG, Laponite® RD, Laponite® RDS, Laponite® XL21 (these products are sodium magnesium silicates and sodium lithium magnesium silicates) by the company Rockwood Additives Limited.

[0321 ] Such gelling agents may be used in a proportion of from 0.1 % to 8% by

weight of solids relative to the total weight of the aqueous phase, notably from 0.1 % to 5% by weight and in particular from 0.5% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the aqueous phase.

[0322] III. B. Hydrophilic fumed silica

[0323] The fumed silicas according to the present invention are hydrophilic.

[0324] The hydrophilic fumed silicas are obtained by pyrolysis of silicon tetrachloride (SiCI4) in a continuous flame at 1000°C in the presence of hydrogen and oxygen. Among the fumed silicas of hydrophilic nature that may be used according to the present invention, mention may notably be made of those sold by the company Degussa or Evonik Degussa under the trade names Aerosil® 90, 130, 150, 200, 300 and 380 or alternatively by the company Cabot under the name Carbosil H5®.

[0325] According to a preferred embodiment, a homopolymer of a monomer bearing a sulfonic group according to the invention is a crosslinked ammonium 2- acrylamidomethylpropanesulfonate homopolymer, preferably having the INCI name: Ammonium polyacryldimethyltauramide as described in the patent

[0326] EP0815928B1 , such as the product sold under the trade name Hostacerin AMPS® by the company Clariant.

[0327] Such gelling agents may be used in a proportion of from 0.1 % to 10% by

weight of solids relative to the total weight of the aqueous phase, notably from 0.1 % to 5% by weight and in particular from 0.5% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the aqueous phase.

[0328] Lipophilic gelling agent [0329] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "lipophilic gelling agent" means a compound that is capable of gelling the oily phase of the compositions according to the invention.

[0330] The gelling agent is lipophilic and is thus present in the oily phase of the

composition.

[0331 ] The gelling agent is liposoluble or lipodispersible.

[0332] As emerges from the text hereinbelow, the lipophilic gelling agent is

advantageously chosen from particulate gelling agents, organopolysiloxane elastomers, semicrystalline polymers, dextrin esters, polymers containing hydrogen bonding, hydrocarbon-based block copolymers, also known as block copolymers, and mixtures thereof.

[0333] I. Particulate gelling agents

[0334] The particulate gelling agent used in the composition according to the

invention is in the form of particles, preferably spherical particles.

[0335] As representative lipophilic particulate gelling agents that are suitable for use in the invention, mention may be made most particularly of polar and apolar waxes, modified clays, and silicas such as fumed silicas and hydrophobic silica aerogels.

[0336] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the particulate gelling agent used in the composition according to the invention may also be a soft-focus filler within the meaning of the invention.

[0337] The waxes

[0338] The term "wax" under consideration in the context of the present invention generally means a lipophilic compound that is solid at room temperature (25°C), with a solid/liquid reversible change of state, having a melting point of greater than or equal to 30°C, which may be up to 200°C and notably up to 120°C.

[0339] For the purposes of the invention, the melting point corresponds to the

temperature of the most endothermic peak observed on thermal analysis (DSC) as described in the standard ISO 11357-3; 1999. The melting point of the wax may be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name MDSC 2920 by the company TA Instruments.

[0340] The measuring protocol is as follows:

[0341 ] A sample of 5 mg of wax placed in a crucible is subjected to a first

temperature rise ranging from -20°C to 100°C, at a heating rate of 10°C/minute, it is then cooled from 100°C to -20°C at a cooling rate of 10°C/minute and is finally subjected to a second temperature rise ranging from -20°C to 100°C at a heating rate of 5°C/minute. During the second temperature rise, the variation in the difference in power absorbed by the empty crucible and by the crucible

containing the sample of wax is measured as a function of the temperature. The melting point of the compound is the temperature value corresponding to the top of the peak of the curve representing the variation in the difference in power absorbed as a function of the temperature.

[0342] The waxes that may be used in the compositions according to the invention are chosen from waxes that are solid at room temperature, of animal, plant, mineral or synthetic origin, and mixtures thereof.

[0343] The waxes, for the purposes of the invention, may be those generally used in the cosmetic or dermatological fields. They may notably be polar or apolar, hydrocarbon-based, silicone and/or fluoro waxes, optionally including ester or hydroxyl functions. They may also be of natural or synthetic origin.

[0344] a) Apolar waxes

[0345] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "apolar wax" means a wax whose solubility parameter at 25°C as defined below, 5a, is equal to 0 (J/cm3)½.

[0346] The definition and calculation of the solubility parameters in the Hansen three- dimensional solubility space are described in the article by C.M. Hansen: The three-dimensional solubility parameters, J. Paint Technol., 39, 105 (1967).

[0347] According to this Hansen space:

[0348] - 5D characterizes the London dispersion forces derived from the formation of dipoles induced during molecular impacts; [0349] - dr characterizes the Debye interaction forces between permanent dipoles and also the Keesom interaction forces between induced dipoles and permanent dipoles;

[0350] - 5h characterizes the specific interaction forces (such as hydrogen bonding, acid/base, donor/acceptor, etc. );

[0351 ] - 5a is determined by the equation: 5a = (dr ² + dIi ² )½.

[0352] The parameters dr, dΐi, dϋ and 6a are expressed in (J/cm3)½.

[0353] The apolar waxes are in particular hydrocarbon-based waxes constituted solely of carbon and hydrogen atoms, and free of heteroatoms such as N, O, Si and P.

[0354] The apolar waxes are chosen from microcrystalline waxes, paraffin waxes, ozokerite and polyethylene waxes, and mixtures thereof.

[0355]

[0356] An ozokerite that may be mentioned is Ozokerite Wax SP 1020 P®.

[0357]

[0358] As microcrystalline waxes that may be used, mention may be made of

Multiwax W 445® sold by the company Sonneborn, Microwax HW® and Base Wax 30540® sold by the company Paramelt, and Cerewax® No. 3 sold by the company Baerlocher.

[0359]

[0360] As microwaxes that may be used in the compositions according to the

invention as apolar wax, mention may be made notably of polyethylene microwaxes such as those sold under the names Micropoly 200®, 220®, 220L® and 250S® by the company Micro Powders.

[0361 ] Polyethylene waxes that may be mentioned include Performalene 500-L®

Polyethylene and Performalene 400® Polyethylene sold by New Phase

Technologies, and Asensa® SC 211 sold by the company Honeywell.

[0362] b) Polar wax [0363] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "polar wax" means a wax whose solubility parameter at 25°C, 5a, is other than 0 (J/cm3)½.

[0364] In particular, the term "polar wax" means a wax whose chemical structure is formed essentially from, or even constituted by, carbon and hydrogen atoms, and comprising at least one highly electronegative heteroatom such as an oxygen, nitrogen, silicon or phosphorus atom.

[0365] The polar waxes may notably be hydrocarbon-based, fluoro or silicone waxes.

[0366] Preferentially, the polar waxes may be hydrocarbon-based waxes.

[0367] The term "hydrocarbon-based wax" means a wax formed essentially from, or even constituted of, carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally oxygen and nitrogen atoms, and that does not contain any silicon or fluorine atoms. It may contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and/or amide groups.

[0368] According to the invention, the term "ester wax" means a wax comprising at least one ester function. According to the invention, the term "alcohol wax" means a wax comprising at least one alcohol function, i.e. comprising at least one free hydroxyl (OH) group.

[0369] Use may notably be made, as ester wax, of:

[0370] - ester waxes, such as those chosen from:

[0371 ] i) waxes of formula R1 COOR2 in which R1 and R2 represent linear, branched or cyclic aliphatic chains in which the number of atoms ranges from 10 to 50, which may contain a heteroatom such as O, N or P and whose melting point ranges from 25 to 120°C.

[0372] ii) bis(trimethylol-1 ,1 ,1 propane) tetrastearate, sold under the name Hest 2T- 4S® by the company Heterene.

[0373] iii) diester waxes of a dicarboxylic acid of general formula R3-(-OCO-R4- COO-R5), in which R3 and R5 are identical or different, preferably identical and represent a C4-C30 alkyl group (alkyl group comprising from 4 to 30 carbon atoms) and R4 represents a linear or branched C4-C30 aliphatic group (alkyl group comprising from 4 to 30 carbon atoms) which may or may not contain one or more unsaturated groups, and which is preferably linear and unsaturated. [0374] iv) mention may also be made of the waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or plant oils containing linear or branched C8-C32 fatty chains, for instance hydrogenated jojoba oil, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut kernel oil, and also the waxes obtained by hydrogenation of castor oil esterified with cetyl alcohol.

[0375] v) beeswax, synthetic beeswax, polyglycerolated beeswax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, oxypropylenated lanolin wax, rice bran wax, ouricury wax, esparto grass wax, cork fiber wax, sugar cane wax, Japan wax, sumac wax, montan wax, orange wax, laurel wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax, sunflower wax, lemon wax, olive wax or berry wax.

[0376] According to another embodiment, the polar wax may be an alcohol wax.

According to the invention, the term "alcohol wax" means a wax comprising at least one alcohol function, i.e. comprising at least one free hydroxyl (OH) group.

[0377] Examples of alcohol waxes that may be mentioned include the C30-C50

alcohol wax Performacol® 550 Alcohol sold by the company New Phase

Technologies, stearyl alcohol and cetyl alcohol.

[0378] It is also possible to use silicone waxes, which may advantageously be

substituted polysiloxanes, preferably of low melting point.

[0379] The term "silicone wax" means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom and notably comprising Si-0 groups.

[0380] Among the commercial silicone waxes of this type, mention may notably be made of those sold under the names Abilwax 9800, 9801 or 9810 (Goldschmidt), KF910® and KF7002® (Shin-Etsu), or 176-1118-3® and 176-11481® (General Electric).

[0381 ] The silicone waxes that may be used may also be alkyl or alkoxy

dimethicones, and also (C20-C60)alkyl dimethicones, in particular (C30-C45)alkyl dimethicones, such as the silicone wax sold under the name SF-1642® by the company GE-Bayer Silicones® or C30-45 alkyl dimethylsilyl

polypropylsilsesquioxane under the name SW-8005® C30 Resin Wax sold by the company Dow Corning. [0382] In the context of the present invention, particularly advantageous waxes that may be mentioned include polyethylene waxes, jojoba wax, candelilla wax and silicone waxes, in particular candelilla wax.

[0383] They may be present in the oily phase in a proportion of from 0.5% to 30% by weight relative to the weight of the oily phase, for example between 5% and 20% of the oily phase and more particularly from 2% to 15% by weight relative to the weight of the oily phase.

[0384] Modified clays

[0385] The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one

lipophilic clay.

[0386] The clays may be natural or synthetic, and they are made lipophilic by

treatment with an alkylammonium salt such as a C10 to C22 ammonium chloride, for example distearyldimethylammonium chloride.

[0387] They may be chosen from bentonites, in particular hectorites and

montmorillonites, beidellites, saponites, nontronites, sepiolites, biotites, attapulgites, vermiculites and zeolites.

[0388] They are preferably chosen from hectorites.

[0389] Hectorites modified with a C10 to C22 ammonium chloride, such as hectorite modified with distearyldimethylammonium chloride, for instance the product sold under the name Bentone 38V® by the company Elementis or bentone gel in isododecane sold under the name Bentone Gel ISD V® (87% isododecane/10% disteardimonium hectorite/3% propylene carbonate) by the company Elementis, are preferably used as lipophilic clays.

[0390] Lipophilic clay may notably be present in a content ranging from 0.1 % to 15% by weight, in particular from 0.5% to 10% and more particularly from 1 % to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the oily phase.

[0391 ] Silicas

[0392] The oily phase of a composition according to the invention may also

comprise, as gelling agent, a fumed silica or silica aerogel particles.

[0393] a) Fumed silica [0394] Fumed silica which has undergone a hydrophobic surface treatment is most particularly suitable for use in the invention. Indeed, it is possible to chemically modify the surface of the silica, by chemical reaction generating a reduction in the number of silanol groups present at the surface of the silica. It is notably possible to substitute silanol groups with hydrophobic groups: a hydrophobic silica is then obtained.

[0395] The hydrophobic groups may be:

[0396] - trimethylsiloxyl groups, which are obtained notably by treating fumed silica in the presence of hexamethyldisilazane. Silicas thus treated are known as“silica silylate” according to the CTFA (8th Edition, 2000). They are sold, for example, under the references Aerosil R812® by the company Degussa, and Cab-O-Sil TS-530® by the company Cabot.

[0397] - dimethylsilyloxyl or polydimethylsiloxane groups, which are notably obtained by treating fumed silica in the presence of polydimethylsiloxane or

dimethyldichlorosilane. Silicas thus treated are known as“Silica Dimethyl Silylate” according to the CTFA (8th edition, 2000). They are sold, for example, under the references Aerosil R972® and Aerosil R974® by the company Degussa, and Cab-O-Sil TS-610® and Cab-O-Sil TS-720® by the company Cabot.

[0398] The fumed silicas may be present in a composition according to the present invention in a content of between 0.1 % and 40% by weight, more particularly between 1 % and 15% by weight and even more particularly between 2% and 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the oily phase.

[0399] b) Flydrophobic silica aerogels

[0400] The oily phase of a composition according to the invention may also

comprise, as gelling agent, at least silica aerogel particles.

[0401 ] Silica aerogels are porous materials obtained by replacing (by drying) the liquid component of a silica gel with air.

[0402] They are generally synthesized via a sol-gel process in a liquid medium and then dried, usually by extraction with a supercritical fluid, the one most commonly used being supercritical C02. This type of drying makes it possible to avoid shrinkage of the pores and of the material. The sol-gel process and the various drying operations are described in detail in Brinker C.J. and Scherer G.W., Sol- Gel Science, New York, Academic Press, 1990.

[0403] The hydrophobic silica aerogel particles used in the present invention have a specific surface area per unit mass (SM) ranging from 500 to 1500 m2/g, preferably from 600 to 1200 m2/g and better still from 600 to 800 m2/g, and a size expressed as the volume mean diameter (D[0.5]) ranging from 1 to 1500 pm, better still from 1 to 1000 pm, preferably from 1 to 100 pm, in particular from 1 to 30 pm, preferably from 5 to 25 pm, better still from 5 to 20 pm and even better still from 5 to 15 pm.

[0404] According to one embodiment, the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles used in the present invention have a size expressed as volume-mean diameter (D[0.5]) ranging from 1 to 30 pm, preferably from 5 to 25 pm, better still from 5 to 20 pm and even better still from 5 to 15 pm.

[0405] The specific surface area per unit mass may be determined by the nitrogen absorption method, known as the BET (Brunauer-Emmett-Teller) method, described in The Journal of the American Chemical Society, vol. 60, page 309, February 1938 and corresponding to international standard ISO 5794/1 (annex D). The BET specific surface area corresponds to the total specific surface area of the particles under consideration.

[0406] The sizes of the silica aerogel particles may be measured by static light

scattering using a commercial particle size analyser such as the MasterSizer 2000 machine from Malvern. The data are processed on the basis of the Mie scattering theory. This theory, which is exact for isotropic particles, makes it possible to determine, in the case of nonspherical particles, an "effective" particle diameter. This theory is notably described in the publication by Van de Hulst,

H.C., Light Scattering by Small Particles, Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957.

[0407] According to an advantageous embodiment, the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles used in the present invention have a specific surface area per unit mass (S/M) ranging from 600 to 800 m2/g.

[0408] The silica aerogel particles used in the present invention may advantageously have a tapped density□ ranging from 0.02 g/cm3 to 0.10 g/cm3, preferably from 0.03 g/cm3 to 0.08 g/cm3 and in particular ranging from 0.05 g/cm3 to 0.08 g/cm3.

[0409] In the context of the present invention, this density may be assessed

according to the following protocol, known as the tapped density protocol:

[0410] 40 g of powder are poured into a measuring cylinder; the measuring cylinder is then placed on a Stav 2003 machine from Stampf Volumeter; the measuring cylinder is then subjected to a series of 2500 tapping actions (this operation is repeated until the difference in volume between two consecutive tests is less than 2%); the final volume Vf of tapped powder is then measured directly on the measuring cylinder. The tapped density is determined by the ratio m/Vf, in this instance 40/Vf (Vf being expressed in cm3 and m in g).

[0411 ] According to a preferred embodiment, the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles used in the present invention have a specific surface area per unit volume S/V ranging from 5 to 60 m2/cm3, preferably from 10 to 50 m2/cm3 and better still from 15 to 40 m2/cm3.

[0412] The specific surface area per unit volume is given by the relationship:

[0413] S/V = S/M x p where p is the tapped density expressed in g/cm3 and S/M is the specific surface area per unit mass expressed in m2/g, as defined above.

[0414] Preferably, the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles according to the invention have an oil-absorbing capacity, measured at the wet point, ranging from 5 to 18 ml/g, preferably from 6 to 15 ml/g and better still from 8 to 12 ml/g.

[0415] The absorbing capacity measured at the wet point, denoted Wp, corresponds to the amount of oil that needs to be added to 100 g of particles in order to obtain a homogeneous paste.

[0416] It is measured according to the "wet point" method or the method for

determining the oil uptake of a powder described in the standard NF T 30-022. It corresponds to the amount of oil adsorbed onto the available surface of the powder and/or absorbed by the powder by measuring the wet point, described below:

[0417] An amount m = 2 g of powder is placed on a glass plate and then the oil

(isononyl isononanoate) is added dropwise. After addition of 4 to 5 drops of oil to the powder, mixing is performed using a spatula, and addition of oil is continued until conglomerates of oil and powder have formed. From this point, the oil is added at the rate of one drop at a time and the mixture is subsequently triturated with the spatula. The addition of oil is stopped when a firm, smooth paste is obtained. This paste must be able to be spread over the glass plate without cracks or the formation of lumps. The volume Vs (expressed in ml) of oil used is then noted.

[0418] The oil uptake corresponds to the ratio Vs/m.

[0419] The aerogels used according to the present invention are aerogels of

hydrophobic silica, preferably of silylated silica (INCI name: silica silylate).

[0420] The term "hydrophobic silica" means any silica whose surface is treated with silylating agents, for example with halogenated silanes such as

alkylchlorosilanes, siloxanes, in particular dimethylsiloxanes such as

hexamethyldisiloxane, or silazanes, so as to functionalize the OH groups with silyl groups Si-Rn, for example trimethylsilyl groups.

[0421 ] As regards the preparation of hydrophobic silica aerogel particles that have been surface-modified by silylation, reference may be made to US 7 470 725.

[0422] Use will preferably be made of hydrophobic silica aerogel particles surface- modified with trimethylsilyl groups, preferably having the INCI name Silica silylate.

[0423] As hydrophobic silica aerogels that may be used in the invention, an example that may be mentioned is the aerogel sold under the name VM-2260® or VM- 2270® (INCI name: Silica silylate) by the company Dow Corning, the particles of which have a mean size of about 1000 microns and a specific surface area per unit mass ranging from 600 to 800 m2/g.

[0424] Mention may also be made of the aerogels sold by the company Cabot under the references Aerogel TLD 201®, Aerogel OGD 201® and Aerogel TLD 203®, Enova® Aerogel MT 1100® and Enova Aerogel MT 1200®.

[0425] Use will preferably be made of the aerogel sold under the name VM-2270 (INCI name: Silica silylate), by Dow Corning, the particles of which have a mean size ranging from 5 to 15 microns and a specific surface area per unit of mass ranging from 600 to 800 m ² /g.

[0426] Preferably, the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles are present in the

composition according to the invention in a solids content ranging from 0.1 % to 8% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 5% by weight and preferably from 0.2% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the oily phase.

[0427] II. Organopolysiloxane elastomer

[0428] The organopolysiloxane elastomer that may be used as lipophilic gelling

agent has the advantage of giving the composition according to the invention good application properties. It affords a very soft feel and a matt effect after application, which is advantageous notably for application to the skin. It may also allow efficient filling of the hollows present on keratin materials.

[0429] The term“organopolysiloxane elastomer” or "silicone elastomer" means a supple, deformable organopolysiloxane with viscoelastic properties and notably with the consistency of a sponge or a supple sphere. Its modulus of elasticity is such that this material withstands deformation and has limited stretchability and contractibility. This material is capable of regaining its original shape after stretching.

[0430] It is more particularly a crosslinked organopolysiloxane elastomer.

[0431 ] Thus, the organopolysiloxane elastomer may be obtained by crosslinking addition reaction of diorganopolysiloxane containing at least one hydrogen bonded to silicon and of diorganopolysiloxane containing ethylenically

unsaturated groups bonded to silicon, notably in the presence of a platinum catalyst; or by dehydrogenation crosslinking condensation reaction between a diorganopolysiloxane containing hydroxyl end groups and a diorganopolysiloxane containing at least one hydrogen bonded to silicon, notably in the presence of an organotin; or by crosslinking condensation reaction of a diorganopolysiloxane containing hydroxyl end groups and of a hydrolyzable organopolysilane; or by thermal crosslinking of organopolysiloxane, notably in the presence of an organoperoxide catalyst; or by crosslinking of organopolysiloxane via high-energy radiation such as gamma rays, ultraviolet rays or an electron beam. [0432] Preferably, the organopolysiloxane elastomer is obtained by crosslinking addition reaction (A) of diorganopolysiloxane containing at least two hydrogens each bonded to a silicon, and (B) of diorganopolysiloxane containing at least two ethylenically unsaturated groups bonded to silicon, notably in the presence (C) of a platinum catalyst, as described, for instance, in patent application EP-A-295 886.

[0433] In particular, the organopolysiloxane elastomer may be obtained by reaction of dimethylpolysiloxane bearing dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups and of

methylhydrogenopolysiloxane bearing trimethylsiloxy end groups, in the presence of a platinum catalyst.

[0434] Compound (A) is the base reagent for the formation of elastomeric

organopolysiloxane, and the crosslinking is performed by addition reaction of compound (A) with compound (B) in the presence of catalyst (C).

[0435] Compound (A) is in particular an organopolysiloxane containing at least two hydrogen atoms bonded to different silicon atoms in each molecule.

[0436] Compound (A) may have any molecular structure, notably a linear-chain or branched-chain structure or a cyclic structure.

[0437] Compound (A) may have a viscosity at 25°C ranging from 1 to 50 000

centistokes, notably so as to be readily miscible with compound (B).

[0438] The organic groups bonded to the silicon atoms of compound (A) may be alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, octyl; substituted alkyl groups such as 2-phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropyl or 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl; aryl groups such as phenyl, tolyl, xylyl; substituted aryl groups such as phenylethyl; and substituted

monovalent hydrocarbon-based groups such as an epoxy group, a carboxylate ester group or a mercapto group.

[0439] Compound (A) may thus be chosen from trimethylsiloxy-terminated

methylhydrogenopolysiloxanes, trimethylsiloxy-terminated

dimethylsiloxane/methylhydrogenosiloxane copolymers, and

dimethylsiloxane/methylhydrogenosiloxane cyclic copolymers.

[0440] Compound (B) is advantageously a diorganopolysiloxane containing at least two lower (for example C2-C4) alkenyl groups; the lower alkenyl group may be chosen from vinyl, allyl and propenyl groups. These lower alkenyl groups may be located in any position on the organopolysiloxane molecule, but are preferably located at the ends of the organopolysiloxane molecule. The organopolysiloxane (B) may have a branched-chain, linear-chain, cyclic or network structure, but the linear-chain structure is preferred. Compound (B) may have a viscosity ranging from the liquid state to the gum state. Preferably, compound (B) has a viscosity of at least 100 centistokes at 25°C.

[0441 ] Besides the abovementioned alkenyl groups, the other organic groups

bonded to the silicon atoms in compound (B) may be alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl or octyl; substituted alkyl groups such as 2- phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropyl or 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl; aryl groups such as phenyl, tolyl or xylyl; substituted aryl groups such as phenylethyl; and substituted monovalent hydrocarbon-based groups such as an epoxy group, a carboxylate ester group or a mercapto group.

[0442] The organopolysiloxanes (B) may be chosen from methylvinylpolysiloxanes, methylvinylsiloxane/dimethylsiloxane copolymers, dimethylvinylsiloxy-terminated dimethylpolysiloxanes, dimethylvinylsiloxy-terminated

dimethylsiloxane/methylphenylsiloxane copolymers, dimethylvinylsiloxy- terminated dimethylsiloxane/diphenylsiloxane/methylvinylsiloxane copolymers, trimethylsiloxy-terminated dimethylsiloxane/methylvinylsiloxane copolymers, trimethylsiloxy-terminated

dimethylsiloxane/methylphenylsiloxane/methylvinylsiloxane copolymers, dimethylvinylsiloxy-terminated methyl(3,3,3-trifluoropropyl)polysiloxanes, and dimethylvinylsiloxy-terminated dimethylsiloxane/methyl(3,3,3- trifluoropropyl)siloxane copolymers.

[0443] In particular, the elastomeric organopolysiloxane may be obtained via reaction of dimethylvinylsiloxy-terminated dimethylpolysiloxane and of trimethylsiloxy- terminated methylhydrogenopolysiloxane, in the presence of a platinum catalyst.

[0444] Advantageously, the sum of the number of ethylenic groups per molecule of compound (B) and of the number of hydrogen atoms bonded to silicon atoms per molecule of compound (A) is at least 5. [0445] It is advantageous for compound (A) to be added in an amount such that the molecular ratio between the total amount of hydrogen atoms bonded to silicon atoms in compound (A) and the total amount of all the ethylenically unsaturated groups in compound (B) is within the range from 1.5/1 to 20/1.

[0446] Compound (C) is the catalyst for the crosslinking reaction, and is notably chloroplatinic acid, chloroplatinic acid-olefin complexes, chloroplatinic acid- alkenylsiloxane complexes, chloroplatinic acid-diketone complexes, platinum black and platinum on a support.

[0447] Catalyst (C) is preferably added in an amount of from 0.1 to 1000 parts by weight and better still from 1 to 100 parts by weight, as clean platinum metal, per 1000 parts by weight of the total amount of compounds (A) and (B).

[0448] The elastomer is advantageously a non-emulsifying elastomer.

[0449] The term "non-emulsifying" defines organopolysiloxane elastomers not

containing any hydrophilic chains, and in particular not containing any

polyoxyalkylene units (notably polyoxyethylene or polyoxypropylene) or any polyglyceryl units. Thus, according to a specific form of the invention, the composition comprises an organopolysiloxane elastomer that is free of polyoxyalkylene units and of polyglyceryl unit.

[0450] In particular, the silicone elastomer used in the present invention is chosen from Dimethicone Crosspolymer (INCI name), Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer (INCI name), Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer (INCI name), Dimethicone Crosspolymer-3 (INCI name).

[0451 ] The organopolysiloxane elastomer particles may be conveyed in the form of a gel formed from an elastomeric organopolysiloxane included in at least one hydrocarbon-based oil and/or one silicone oil. In these gels, the

organopolysiloxane particles are often non-spherical particles.

[0452] Non-emulsifying elastomers are notably described in patents EP 242 219, EP 285 886 and EP 765 656 and in patent application JP-A-61 -194 009.

[0453] The silicone elastomer is generally in the form of a gel, a paste or a powder, but advantageously in the form of a gel in which the silicone elastomer is dispersed in a linear silicone oil (dimethicone) or cyclic silicone oil (e.g.:

cyclopentasiloxane), advantageously in a linear silicone oil.

[0454] Non-emulsifying elastomers that may more particularly be used include those sold under the names KSG-6®, KSG-15®, KSG-16®, KSG-18®, KSG-41®, KSG- 42®, KSG-43® and KSG-44® by the company Shin-Etsu, DC9040® and

DC9041® by Dow Corning and SFE 839® by the company General Electric.

[0455] According to a particular mode, use is made of a gel of silicone elastomer dispersed in a silicone oil chosen from a non-exhaustive list comprising

cyclopentadimethylsiloxane, dimethicones, dimethylsiloxanes, methyl

trimethicone, phenyl methicone, phenyl dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone and cyclomethicone, preferably a linear silicone oil chosen from

polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) or dimethicones with a viscosity at 25°C ranging from 1 to 500 cSt, optionally modified with optionally fluorinated aliphatic groups, or with functional groups such as hydroxyl, thiol and/or amine groups.

[0456] Mention may be made in particular of the compounds having the following INCI names:

[0457] Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, such as USG-105® and USG- 107A® from the company Shin-Etsu; DC9506® and DC9701® from the company Dow Corning; Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer (and) Dimethicone, such as KSG-6® and KSG-16® from the company Shin-Etsu;

[0458] Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer (and) Cyclopentasiloxane, such as KSG-15®;

[0459] Cyclopentasiloxane (and) Dimethicone Crosspolymer, such as DC9040®, DC9045® and DC5930® from the company Dow Corning;

[0460] Dimethicone (and) Dimethicone Crosspolymer, such as DC9041® from the company Dow Corning;

[0461 ] Dimethicone (and) Dimethicone Crosspolymer, such as Dow Corning EL- 9240® Silicone Elastomer Blend from the company Dow Corning (mixture of polydimethylsiloxane crosslinked with hexadiene/polydimethylsiloxane (2 cSt));

[0462] C4-C24 Alkyl Dimethicone/DivinyIDimethicone Crosspolymer, such as

NuLastic Silk MA® by the company Alzo. [0463] As examples of silicone elastomers dispersed in a linear silicone oil that may advantageously be used according to the invention, mention may notably be made of the following references:

[0464] - Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer (and) Dimethicone, such as KSG-6® and KSG-16® from the company Shin Etsu;

[0465] - Dimethicone (and) Dimethicone Crosspolymer, such as DC9041 from the company Dow Corning; and

[0466] Dimethicone (and) Dimethicone Crosspolymer, such as Dow Corning EL- 9240® Silicone Elastomer Blend from the company Dow Corning (mixture of polydimethylsiloxane crosslinked with hexadiene/polydimethysiloxane (2 cSt)).

[0467] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the

invention comprises at least one crosslinked silicone elastomer having the INCI name "dimethicone crosspolymer" or "dimethicone (and) dimethicone

crosspolymer", with, preferably, a dimethicone having a viscosity ranging from 1 to 100 cSt, in particular from 1 to 10 cSt at 25°C, such as the mixture of polydimethylsiloxane crosslinked with hexadiene/polydimethylsiloxane (5 cSt) sold under the name DC 9041 by the company Dow Corning or the mixture of polydimethylsiloxane crosslinked with hexadiene/polydimethylsiloxane (2 cSt) sold under the name EL-9240® by the company Dow Corning.

[0468] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one crosslinked silicone elastomer having the INCI name "dimethicone (and) dimethicone crosspolymer", preferably with a dimethicone having a viscosity ranging from 1 to 100 cSt, in particular from 1 to 10 cSt at 25°C, such as the mixture of polydimethylsiloxane crosslinked with hexadiene/polydimethylsiloxane (5 cSt) sold under the name DC 9041® by the company Dow Corning.

[0469] The organopolysiloxane elastomer particles may also be used in powder form: mention may be made notably of the powders sold under the names Dow

Corning 9505 Powder® and Dow Corning 9506® Powder by the company Dow Corning, these powders having the INCI name: Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone crosspolymer. [0470] The organopolysiloxane powder may also be coated with silsesquioxane resin, as described, for example, in patent US 5 538 793. Such elastomeric powders are sold under the names KSP-100®, KSP-101®, KSP-102®, KSP- 103®, KSP-104® and KSP-105® by the company Shin-Etsu, and have the INCI name: Vinyl Dimethicone/Methicone Silsesquioxane Crosspolymer.

[0471 ] As examples of organopolysiloxane powders coated with silsesquioxane resin that may advantageously be used according to the invention, mention may be made notably of the reference KSP-100® from the company Shin-Etsu.

[0472] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one crosslinked silicone elastomer having the INCI name: Vinyl Dimethicone/Methicone Silsesquioxane Crosspolymer, as oily gelling agent and/or soft-focus filler.

[0473] As preferred lipophilic gelling agent of organopolysiloxane elastomer type, mention may be made notably of crosslinked organopolysiloxane elastomers chosen from Dimethicone Crosspolymer (INCI name), Dimethicone (and)

Dimethicone Crosspolymer (INCI name), Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer (INCI name), Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer (INCI name), Dimethicone Crosspolymer-3 (INCI name), and in particular Dimethicone Crosspolymer (INCI name).

[0474] The organopolysiloxane elastomer may be present in a composition according to the present invention in a content of between 0.2% and 15% by weight of active material (solids) and notably between 0.2% and 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the oily phase.

[0475] The organopolysiloxane elastomer may be present in a composition according to the present invention in a content of between 0.2% and 25% by weight of active material (solids) and notably between 1 % and 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0476] III. Semicrystalline polymers

[0477] The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one

semicrystalline polymer. Preferably, the semicrystalline polymer has an organic structure, and a melting point of greater than or equal to 30°C. [0478] For the purposes of the invention, the term“semicrystalline polymer” means polymers including a crystallizable portion and an amorphous portion and having a first-order reversible change of phase temperature, in particular of melting (solid-liquid transition). The crystallizable portion is either a side chain (or pendent chain) or a block in the backbone.

[0479] When the crystallizable portion of the semicrystalline polymer is a block of the polymer backbone, this crystallizable block has a chemical nature different from that of the amorphous blocks; in this case, the semicrystalline polymer is a block copolymer, for example of the diblock, triblock or multiblock type. When the crystallizable portion is a chain that is pendent relative to the backbone, the semicrystalline polymer may be a homopolymer or a copolymer.

[0480] The melting point of the semi-crystalline polymer is preferably less than

150°C.

[0481 ] The melting point of the semicrystalline polymer is preferably greater than or equal to 30°C and less than 100°C. More preferably, the melting point of the semicrystalline polymer is greater than or equal to 30°C and less than 70°C.

[0482] The semicrystalline polymer(s) according to the invention serving are solid at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg), with a melting point of greater than or equal to 30°C. The melting point values correspond to the melting point measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), such as the calorimeter sold under the name DSC 30 by the company Mettler, with a temperature rise of 5 or 10°C per minute (the melting point under consideration is the point corresponding to the temperature of the most endothermic peak in the thermogram).

[0483] The semicrystalline polymer(s) according to the invention preferably have a melting point that is higher than the temperature of the keratin support intended to receive said composition, in particular the skin.

[0484] According to the invention, the semicrystalline polymers are advantageously soluble in the fatty phase, notably to at least 1 % by weight, at a temperature above their melting point. Besides the crystallizable chains or blocks, the blocks of the polymers are amorphous. [0485] For the purposes of the invention, the term "crystallizable chain or block” means a chain or block which, if it were alone, would change from the amorphous state to the crystalline state reversibly, depending on whether the temperature is above or below the melting point. For the purposes of the invention, a chain is a group of atoms, which is pendent or lateral relative to the polymer backbone. A block is a group of atoms belonging to the backbone, this group constituting one of the repeating units of the polymer.

[0486] Preferably, the polymer backbone of the semicrystalline polymers is soluble in the fatty phase at a temperature above their melting point.

[0487] Preferably, the crystallizable blocks or chains of the semi-crystalline polymers represent at least 30% of the total weight of each polymer and better still at least 40%. The semicrystalline polymers bearing crystallizable side chains are homopolymers or copolymers. The semicrystalline polymers of the invention bearing crystallizable blocks are block or multiblock copolymers. They may be obtained by polymerizing a monomer bearing reactive (or ethylenic) double bonds or by polycondensation. When the polymers of the invention are polymers bearing crystallizable side chains, these polymers are advantageously in random or statistical form.

[0488] Preferably, the semicrystalline polymers of the invention are of synthetic

origin.

[0489] According to one preferred embodiment, the semicrystalline polymer is

chosen from:

[0490] - homopolymers and copolymers including units resulting from the

polymerization of one or more monomers bearing crystallizable hydrophobic side chain(s),

[0491 ] - polymers bearing in the backbone at least one crystallizable block,

[0492] - polycondensates of aliphatic or aromatic or aliphatic/aromatic polyester type,

[0493] - copolymers of ethylene and propylene prepared via metallocene catalysis, and

[0494] - acrylate/silicone copolymers. [0495] The semicrystalline polymers that may be used in the invention may be chosen in particular from:

[0496] - block copolymers of polyolefins with controlled crystallization, the

monomers of which are described in EP 0 951 897,

[0497] - polycondensates, notably of aliphatic or aromatic or aliphatic/aromatic polyester type,

[0498] - copolymers of ethylene and propylene prepared via metallocene catalysis,

[0499] - homopolymers or copolymers bearing at least one crystallizable side chain and homopolymers or copolymers bearing in the backbone at least one crystallizable block, such as those described in US 5 156 911 , such as the (C10- C30)alkyl polyacrylates corresponding to the Intelimer® products from the company Landec described in the brochure“Intelimer polymers”, Landec IP22® (Rev. 4-97®) and for example the product Intelimer® IPA 13-1 from the company Landec, which is a polystearyl acrylate with a molecular weight of about 145 000, the melting point of which is equal to 49°C,

[0500] - homopolymers or copolymers bearing at least one crystallizable side chain, in particular containing fluoro group(s), such as described in WO

01/19333,

[0501 ] - acrylate/silicone copolymers, such as copolymers of acrylic acid and of stearyl acrylate bearing polydimethylsiloxane grafts, copolymers of stearyl methacrylate bearing polydimethylsiloxane grafts, copolymers of acrylic acid and of stearyl methacrylate bearing polydimethylsiloxane grafts, copolymers of methyl methacrylate, butyl methacrylate, 2-ethylhexyl acrylate and stearyl methacrylate bearing polydimethylsiloxane grafts. Mention may be made in particular of the copolymers sold by the company Shin-Etsu under the names KP-561® (CTFA name: Acrylates/Dimethicone), KP-541® (CTFA name: Acrylates/Dimethicone and Isopropyl alcohol), KP-545® (CTFA name: Acrylates/Dimethicone and Cyclopentasiloxane),

[0502] - and mixtures thereof.

[0503] Preferably, the amount of semicrystalline polymer(s), preferably chosen from semicrystalline polymers bearing crystallizable side chains, represents from 0.1 % to 30% by weight of solids relative to the total weight of the oily phase, for example from 0.5% to 25% by weight, better still from 5% to 20% or even from 5% to 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the oily phase.

[0504] IV. Dextrin esters

[0505] The composition according to the invention may comprise as lipophilic gelling agent at least one dextrin ester.

[0506] In particular, the composition preferably comprises at least one ester of

dextrin and of a preferably C12 to C24 and in particular C14 to C18 fatty acid, or mixtures thereof.

[0507] Preferably, the dextrin ester is an ester of dextrin and of a C12-C18 and in particular C14-C18 fatty acid.

[0508] Preferably, the dextrin ester is chosen from dextrin myristate and/or dextrin palmitate, and mixtures thereof.

[0509] According to a particular embodiment, the dextrin ester is dextrin myristate, notably such as the product sold under the name Rheopearl MKL-2® by the company Chiba Flour Milling.

[0510] According to a preferred embodiment, the dextrin ester is dextrin palmitate.

This product may be chosen, for example, from those sold under the names Rheopearl TL®, Rheopearl KL® and Rheopearl® KL2 by the company Chiba Flour Milling.

[0511 ] In a particularly preferred manner, the oily phase of a composition according to the invention may comprise from 0.1 % to 30% by weight, preferably from 2% to 25% and preferably from 7.5% to 17% by weight of dextrin ester(s) relative to the total weight of the oily phase.

[0512] In a particularly preferred manner, the composition according to the invention may comprise between 0.1 % and 10% by weight and preferably between 0.5% and 5% by weight of dextrin palmitate relative to the total weight of the oily phase. The dextrin palmitate may notably be the product sold under the names

Rheopearl TL®, Rheopearl KL® or Rheopearl® KL2 by the company Chiba Flour Milling.

[0513] V. Polymers containing hydrogen bonding [0514] As representatives of polymers containing hydrogen bonding that are suitable for use in the invention, mention may be made most particularly of polyamides and in particular hydrocarbon-based polyamides and silicone polyamides.

[0515] Polyamides

[0516] The oily phase of a composition according to the invention may comprise at least one polyamide chosen from hydrocarbon-based polyamides and silicone polyamides, and mixtures thereof.

[0517] Preferably, the total content of polyamide(s) is between 0.1 % and 30% by weight expressed as solids, preferably between 0.1 % and 20% by weight and preferably between 0.5% and 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the oily phase.

[0518] For the purposes of the invention, the term“polyamide” means a compound containing at least 2 amide repeating units, preferably at least 3 amide repeating units and better still 10 amide repeating units.

[0519] a) Hydrocarbon-based polyamide

[0520] The term "hydrocarbon-based polyamide" means a polyamide formed

essentially of, indeed even constituted by, carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally of oxygen or nitrogen atoms, and not containing any silicon or fluorine atoms. It may contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and/or amide groups.

[0521 ] For the purposes of the invention, the term“functionalized chain” means an alkyl chain including one or more functional groups or reagents chosen notably from hydroxyl, ether, ester, oxyalkylene and polyoxyalkylene groups.

[0522] Advantageously, this polyamide of the composition according to the invention has a weight-average molecular mass of less than 100 000 g/mol, notably ranging from 1000 to 100 000 g/mol, in particular less than 50 000 g/mol, notably ranging from 1000 to 50 000 g/mol, more particularly ranging from 1000 to 30 000 g/mol, preferably from 2000 to 20 000 g/mol and better still from 2000 to 10 000 g/mol.

[0523] This polyamide is insoluble in water, notably at 25°C. [0524] According to a first embodiment of the invention, the polyamide used is a polyamide of formula (I):

[0525] [Chem. 12]

[0526] in which X represents a group -N(R1 )2 or a group -OR1 in which R1 is a linear or branched C8 to C22 alkyl radical which may be identical to or different from each other, R2 is a C28-C42 diacid dimer residue, R3 is an ethylenediamine radical and n is between 2 and 5;

[0527] and mixtures thereof.

[0528] According to a particular mode, the polyamide used is an amide-terminated polyamide of formula (la):

[0529] [Chem. 13]

X-hfi-

⁰

[0530] in which X represents a group -N(R1 )2 in which R1 is a linear or branched C8 to C22 alkyl radical which may be identical to or different from each other, R2 is a C28-C42 diacid dimer residue, R3 is an ethylenediamine radical and n is between 2 and 5;

[0531 ] and mixtures thereof.

[0532] The oily phase of a composition according to the invention may also

comprise, additionally in this case, at least one additional polyamide of formula (lb):

[0533] [Chem. 14] [0534] in which X represents a group -OR1 in which R1 is a linear or branched C8 to C22 and preferably C16 to C22 alkyl radical which may be identical to or different from each other, R2 is a C28-C42 diacid dimer residue, R3 is an ethylenediamine radical and n is between 2 and 5, such as the commercial products sold by the company Arizona Chemical under the names Uniclear 80® and Uniclear 100® or Uniclear 80 V®, Uniclear 100 V® and Uniclear 100 VG®, the INCI name of which is Ethylenediamine/stearyl dimer dilinoleate copolymer.

[0535] b) Silicone polyamide

[0536] The silicone polyamides are preferably solid at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).

[0537] The silicone polyamides may preferentially be polymers comprising at least one unit of formula (III) or (IV):

[0538] [Chem. 15]

ov> or

[Chem. 16]

Ctv) in which:

R4, R5, R6 and R7, which may be identical or different, represent a group chosen from: linear, branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated C1 to C40 hydrocarbon-based groups, which may contain in their chain one or more oxygen, sulfur and/or nitrogen atoms, and which may be partially or totally substituted with fluorine atoms,

C6 to C10 aryl groups, optionally substituted with one or more C1 to C4 alkyl groups, polyorganosiloxane chains possibly containing one or more oxygen, sulfur and/or nitrogen atoms,

said groups X, which may be identical or different, representing a linear or branched C1 to C30 alkylenediyl group, which may contain in its chain one or more oxygen and/or nitrogen atoms,

Y is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1 to C50 divalent alkylene,

arylene, cycloalkylene, alkylarylene or arylalkylene group, which may include one or more oxygen, sulfur and/or nitrogen atoms, and/or which may bear as substituent one of the following atoms or groups of atoms: fluorine, hydroxyl, C3 to C8 cycloalkyl, C1 to C40 alkyl, C5 to C10 aryl, phenyl optionally substituted with one to three C1 to C3 alkyl, C1 to C3 hydroxyalkyl and C1 to C6 aminoalkyl groups, or

Y represents a group corresponding to the formula:

[Chem. 17] in which

[0539] T represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, C3 to C24

trivalent or tetravalent hydrocarbon-based group optionally substituted with a polyorganosiloxane chain, and possibly containing one or more atoms chosen from 0, N and S, or T represents a trivalent atom chosen from N, P and Al, and

[0540] R8 represents a linear or branched C1 to C50 alkyl group, or a

polyorganosiloxane chain, which may include one or more ester, amide, urethane, thiocarbamate, urea, thiourea and/or sulfonamide groups and which may or may not be bonded to another chain of the polymer, [0541 ] n is an integer ranging from 2 to 500, preferably from 2 to 200, and m is an integer ranging from 1 to 1000, preferably from 1 to 700 and better still from 6 to 200.

[0542] According to a particular mode, the silicone polyamide comprises at least one unit of formula (III) in which m ranges from 50 to 200, in particular from 75 to 150 and is preferably about 100.

[0543] Preferably, R4, R5, R6 and R7 independently represent a linear or branched C1 to C40 alkyl group, preferably a group CH3, C2H5, n-C3H7 or an isopropyl group in formula (III).

[0544] As examples of silicone polymers that may be used, mention may be made of one of the silicone polyamides obtained in accordance with Examples 1 to 3 of US 5 981 680.

[0545] Mention may be made of the compounds sold by the company Dow Corning under the names DC 2-8179® (DP 100®) and DC 2-8178® (DP 15®), the INCI name of which is Nylon-611/Dimethicone Copolymers, i.e. Nylon- 611/dimethicone copolymers. The silicone polymers and/or copolymers advantageously have a temperature of transition from the solid state to the liquid state ranging from 45°C to 190°C. Preferably, they have a temperature of transition from the solid state to the liquid state ranging from 70 to 130°C and better still from 80°C to 105°C.

[0546] Preferably, the total content of polyamide(s) and/or silicone polyamide(s) is between 0.5% and 25% by weight of solids, in particular from 2% to 20% by weight and preferably between 2% and 12% by weight relative to the total weight of the oily phase.

[0547] Advantageously, the polymer containing hydrogen bonding is chosen from the ethylenediamine/stearyl dimer dilinoleate copolymer and Nylon-611/dimethicone copolymers.

[0548] VI. Hydrocarbon-based block copolymer

[0549] Representative lipophilic gelling agents that may also be mentioned include other polymeric gelling agents, namely hydrocarbon-based block copolymers, also known as block copolymers. [0550] The polymeric gelling agent is capable of thickening or gelling the hydrocarbon-based phase of the composition.

[0551 ] The term“amorphous polymer” means a polymer that does not have a

crystalline form.

[0552] The polymeric gelling agent is also preferably film-forming, i.e. it is capable of forming a film when applied to the skin and/or the lips.

[0553] The hydrocarbon-based block copolymer may notably be a diblock, triblock, multiblock, radial or star copolymer, or mixtures thereof.

[0554]

[0555] Such hydrocarbon-based block copolymers are described in patent

application

[0556] US-A-2002/005562 and in patent US-A-5 221 534.

[0557] The copolymer may contain at least one block whose glass transition

temperature is preferably less than 20°C, preferably less than or equal to 0°C, preferably less than or equal to -20°C and more preferably less than or equal to - 40°C. The glass transition temperature of said block may be between -150°C and 20°C and notably between -100°C and 0°C.

[0558] The hydrocarbon-based block copolymer present in the composition

according to the invention is an amorphous copolymer formed by polymerization of an olefin. The olefin may notably be an elastomeric ethylenically unsaturated monomer.

[0559] Examples of olefins that may be mentioned include ethylenic carbide

monomers, notably containing one or two ethylenic unsaturations and containing from 2 to 5 carbon atoms, such as ethylene, propylene, butadiene, isoprene or pentadiene.

[0560] Preferentially, the hydrocarbon-based block copolymer is an amorphous block copolymer of styrene and olefin.

[0561 ] Block copolymers comprising at least one styrene block and at least one block comprising units chosen from butadiene, ethylene, propylene, butylene and isoprene or a mixture thereof are notably preferred. [0562] According to a preferred embodiment, the hydrocarbon-based block copolymer is hydrogenated to reduce the residual ethylenic unsaturations after the polymerization of the monomers.

[0563] In particular, the hydrocarbon-based block copolymer is an optionally

hydrogenated copolymer, containing styrene blocks and ethylene/C3-C4 alkylene blocks.

[0564] According to one preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one diblock copolymer, which is preferably hydrogenated, preferably chosen from styrene-ethylene/propylene copolymers, styrene-ethylene/butadiene copolymers and styrene-ethylene/butylene

copolymers. Diblock polymers are notably sold under the name Kraton® G1701 E by the company Kraton Polymers.

[0565] Advantageously, a diblock copolymer such as those described previously is used as polymeric gelling agent, in particular a styrene-ethylene/propylene diblock copolymer or a mixture of diblock copolymers, as described previously.

[0566] Thus, according to a preferred implementation variant, a composition

according to the invention comprises as lipophilic gelling agent at least one hydrocarbon-based block copolymer, preferably an optionally hydrogenated copolymer bearing styrene blocks and ethylene/C3-C4 alkylene blocks, even more preferentially chosen from a diblock copolymer, which is preferably

hydrogenated, such as a styrene-ethylene/propylene copolymer or a styrene- ethylene/butadiene copolymer.

[0567] The hydrocarbon-based block copolymer (or the mixture of hydrocarbon- based block copolymers) may be present in a content ranging from 0.1 % to 15% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.1 % to 10% by weight, more preferentially ranging from 0.5% to 5% by weight and better still ranging from 0.5% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0568] According to an advantageous variant, a composition according to the

invention comprises a lipophilic gelling agent chosen from particulate gelling agents, organopolysiloxane elastomers, semicrystalline polymers, dextrin esters and polymers containing hydrogen bonding, and mixtures thereof, and in particular at least one organopolysiloxane elastomer. [0569] Hydrophilic gelling agent/lipophilic gelling agent system

[0570] As preferred synthetic polymeric hydrophilic gelling agents, mention may be made more particularly of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid

homopolymers and copolymers and in particular copolymers of AMPS® and of hydroxyethyl acrylate, for instance the AMPS®/hydroxyethyl acrylate copolymer such as that used in the commercial product sold under the name Simulgel NS® by the company SEPPIC (CTFA name: Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium

acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer (and) squalane (and) polysorbate -60), or such as the product sold under the name Sodium acrylamido-2- methylpropanesulfonate/hydroxyethyl acrylate copolymer, such as the

commercial product Sepinov EMT 10® (INCI name: Hydroxyethyl

acrylate/sodium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer), crosslinked ammonium acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonate polymers (INCI name: Ammonium polydimethyltauramide) such as those described in patent EP 0 815 928 B1 and such as the product sold under the trade name Hostacerin AMPS® by the company Clariant.

[0571 ] As preferred lipophilic gelling agents of organopolysiloxane elastomer type, mention may be made more particularly of crosslinked organopolysiloxane elastomers chosen from Dimethicone Crosspolymer (INCI name), Dimethicone (and) Dimethicone Crosspolymer (INCI name), Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer (INCI name), DimethiconeA/inyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer (INCI name), Dimethicone Crosspolymer-3 (INCI name), and in particular Dimethicone

Crosspolymer (INCI name) and Dimethicone (and) Dimethicone Crosspolymer (INCI name).

[0572] According to a preferred mode, as preferred lipophilic gelling agents, mention may be made more particularly of gels of silicone elastomer dispersed in a silicone oil and/or powders of organopolysiloxane elastomer coated with silsesquioxane resin.

[0573] Thus, according to a particular mode, use is made of a gel of silicone

elastomer dispersed in a silicone oil chosen from a nonexhaustive list comprising cyclopentadimethylsiloxane, dimethicones, dimethylsiloxanes, methyl

trimethicone, phenyl methicone, phenyl dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone and cyclomethicone, preferably a linear silicone oil chosen from

polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) or dimethicones with a viscosity at 25°C ranging from 1 to 500 cSt at 25°C, notably the following references:

[0574] Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer (and) Dimethicone, such as KSG-6 and KSG-16 from the company Shin Etsu;

[0575] Dimethicone (and) Dimethicone Crosspolymer, such as DC9041 from the company Dow Corning; and Dimethicone (and) Dimethicone Crosspolymer, such as Dow Corning EL-9240® Silicone Elastomer Blend from the company Dow Corning.

[0576] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one crosslinked silicone elastomer having the INCI name Dimethicone (And) Dimethicone Crosspolymer, with, preferably, a dimethicone having a viscosity ranging from 1 to 100 cSt, in particular from 1 to 10 cSt at 25°C, such as the mixture of polydimethylsiloxane with

hexadiene/polydimethylsiloxane (5 cSt) sold under the name DC 9041 Dow Corning and the mixture of polydimethylsiloxane with

hexadiene/polydimethylsiloxane (2 cSt) sold under the name Dow Corning EL- 9240® Silicone Elastomer Blend by Dow Corning.

[0577] According to another particularly preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one organopolysiloxane elastomer powder coated with silsesquioxane resin, having the INCI name: Vinyl

Dimethicone/Methicone Silsesquioxane Crosspolymer sold under the reference KSP-100® by the company Shin-Etsu.

[0578] As nonlimiting illustrations of hydrophilic gelling agent/lipophilic gelling agent systems that are most particularly suitable for use in the invention, mention may be made notably of the homopolymer or copolymer system of 2-acrylamido-2- methylpropanesulfonic acid/organopolysiloxane elastomer(s) .

[0579] Thus, a composition according to the invention may advantageously comprise as hydrophilic gelling agent/lipophilic gelling agent system, a 2-acrylamido-2- methylpropanesulfonic acid homopolymer/organopolysiloxane elastomer(s) system. [0580] Preferably, a composition according to the invention may comprise as hydrophilic gelling agent/lipophilic gelling agent system, a copolymer of 2- acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid and of hydroxyethyl

acrylate/organopolysiloxane elastomer powder system.

[0581 ] SOFT-FOCUS FILLERS

[0582] As mentioned previously, the compositions according to the invention the composition according to the invention comprises at least boron nitride as soft- focus filler.

[0583] In one particular embodiment, the compositions according to the invention comprise at least two different soft-focus fillers, i.e. boron nitride particles and at least one additional soft-focus filler.

[0584] Fillers of this type are particularly advantageous insofar as they can make imperfections hazy. As indicated previously, the performance of these fillers is advantageously increased by means of using them in a composition according to the invention.

[0585] Surprisingly, the compositions according to the invention make it possible to blur the relief imperfections (such as wrinkles, fine lines or visibility of the pores) and/or to improve the smoothness of keratin materials, and/or to improve the color imperfections of keratin materials, notably to make the skin complexion uniform and in particular to correct the redness around the eyes.

[0586] Boron nitride

[0587] The composition according to the invention comprises at least boron nitride particles as soft-focus filler.

[0588] There are several polymorphic forms of boron nitride: hexagonal form boron nitrides (denoted h-BN), rhombohedral form boron nitrides (denoted r-BN), amorphous form boron nitrides (denoted a-BN), turbostratic boron nitrides (denoted t-BN), cubic form boron nitrides (denoted c-BN) and wurtzite-type hexagonal form boron nitrides (denoted w-BN).

[0589]

[0590] Preferentially, the boron nitride particles in accordance with the invention are chosen from turbostratic boron nitride particles, i.e. particles whose crystallization planes may be slightly offset relative to the theoretical position of crystallization. Turbostratic boron nitride is a precursor of hexagonal form born nitride (h-BN). It has the same type of characteristics and physical properties as exfoliated hexagonal boron nitride.

[0591 ] Preferentially, the boron nitride particles have an oxygen content ranging from 0.05% to 3% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1 % to 2.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the particle.

[0592] Preferentially, the boron nitride particles have a mean particle size ranging from 0.1 to 25 pm, preferably from 0.3 to 15 pm.

[0593] The particle size is measured according to a method of distribution by laser diffraction with an apparatus of the type Microtrac from Nikkiso or Mastersizer from Malvern, in particular by measuring the D[10], D[50] and D[90] values.

[0594] D[10] represents the maximum size that 10% by volume of the particles have.

[0595] D[50] represents the maximum size that 50% by volume of the particles have.

[0596] D[90] represents the maximum size that 90% by volume of the particles have.

[0597] The boron nitride particles can be modified with a surface-treatment agent making it possible to give them amphiphilic properties and to promote the dispersibility thereof in compositions comprising an oily phase and/or an aqueous phase.

[0598] Treatment agents that may be chosen include dimethylpolysiloxanes

(dimethicone), linear siloxane polymers end-blocked with trimethoxysiloxy groups, polymethylhydrogenosiloxanes which are linear polysiloxanes called methicones, and polyoxyalkylenated polyalkylethersiloxanes such as the polymer PEG-8 methyl ether dimethicone.

[0599] The boron nitride particles in accordance with the invention will be chosen more particularly from the following commercial products:

[0600] UHP-1010® from Carborundum,

[0601 ] PUHP 1030L® from the company Saint Gobain Ceramics,

[0602] Boron Nitride Powder TRES BN PUHP 3002® from the company Saint

Gobain Ceramics, [0603] TRES BN PUHP 30005® from the company Saint Gobain Ceramics,

[0604] LEAU 3002® (INCI name: Boron Nitride (and) PEG-8 Methyl Ether

Dimethicone by the company Saint Gobain,

[0605] Ronaflair Boroneige SF-3 117774® by the company Merck,

[0606] Ronaflair Boroneige SQ-6® from Merck,

[0607] Softouch Boron Nitride CC6059® by the company Momentive,

[0608] Softouch Boron Nitride CC6097® by the company Momentive,

[0609] Softouch CCS102J® by the company Momentive.

[0610] The boron nitride particles in accordance with the invention will be chosen even more particularly from the following commercial product:

[0611 ] Boron Nitride Powder Tres BN PUHP 3002® from the company Saint Gobain Ceramics.

[0612] A composition according to the invention comprises from 0.2% to 15% by weight, in particular from 1 % to 10% by weight, preferably from 3% to 7% by weight and more particularly from 4% to 6% by weight of boron nitride particles relative to the total weight of said composition.

[0613] According to an advantageous embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least 3% by weight, preferably at least 4% by weight, preferentially at least 5.00% by weight of boron nitride particles relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0614] The contents of the soft-focus fillers, notably the boron nitride particles, used will vary according to the nature of the cosmetic application, care or makeup, for which the composition according to the invention is intended.

[0615] The soft-focus effect is characterized by haze and transparency

(transmittance TH) measurements.“Haze" corresponds to the percentage of light scattered relative to the total transmittance according to the standard ASTM D 1003 (Standard Test Method for Haze and Luminous Transmittance of

Transparent Plastics). [0616] 25 mίti films of composition are applied to 50 pm polyethylene (PE) films. The film is then measured after 1 hour of drying at room temperature. Finally, the film is placed in the machine and transparency and haze measurements are taken.

[0617] The boron nitride particles are dispersed in water (5 g of filler per 7.6 g of water) and this mixture (5 g filler +7.6 g water) is introduced to a proportion of 12.6% in a white base described below:

[0618] [Tables 1 ]

[0619] In particular, the soft-focus filler such as the boron nitride particles introduced to a proportion of 5% in the white base is characterized in that the Haze is greater than 80% and the transmission TH is a greater than 60%, and more preferentially the Haze is greater than 85% and the transmission TH is greater than 60% according to the standard ASTM D 1003 (Standard Test Method for Haze and Luminous Transmittance of Transparent Plastics).

[0620] Needless to say, as indicated below, the compositions according to the

invention may in parallel also contain additional conventional fillers, it being understood that a person skilled in the art will take care not to choose fillers whose nature or amount in the composition would impair the soft-focus effect afforded by the soft-focus fillers.

[0621 ] For the purposes of the present invention, the term“fillers” should be

understood as meaning colorless or white, mineral or organic, natural or synthetic solid particles of any form, which are in an insoluble and dispersed form in the medium of the composition.

[0622] The soft-focus fillers that may be used in the composition according to the invention are notably characterized by a refractive index of between 1 .33 and 2. [0623] They will generally include or be formed from particles with a mean size characterized by a D[50] of less than or equal to 25 pm, notably less than or equal to 20 pm and in particular less than or equal to 15 pm.

[0624] The mean particle size and the size distributions are measured at 25°C by static light scattering using a particle size analyzer such as the Mastersizer 2000 machine from Malvern. The light intensity scattered by the particles as a function of the angle at which they are illuminated is converted to a size distribution according to the Mie theory. This theory, which is exact for isotropic particles, also makes it possible to determine, for nonspherical particles, an "effective" particle diameter. This theory is particularly described in the publication by Van de Hulst, H.C., Light Scattering by Small Particles, Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley,

New York, 1957. The [D50] corresponds to the mean size of 50% by volume of the population of particles.

[0625] These particles may be of any shape and in particular may be spherical or nonspherical.

[0626] By way of example, the additional soft-focus filler is chosen from

polytetrafluoroethylene powders, polyurethane powders, carnauba microwaxes, synthetic wax microwaxes; silicone resin powders, hollow hemispherical silicone particles, acrylic polymer powders, such as powders based on crosslinked polymethyl methacrylate polymer, expanded vinylidene/acrylonitrile/methylene methacrylate microspheres, polyethylene powders; crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane powders; crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane powders coated with silicone resin; starch powders; polyamide powders; silicates, notably of alumina such as talc having a number-mean size of less than or equal to 3 microns; silica powders, notably hydrophobic aerogel particles, silica particles surface-treated with a mineral wax, amorphous silica microspheres, silica microbeads; silica/Ti02 composites; barium sulfate particles;

talc/Ti02/alumina/silica composite powders; spherical cellulose beads, and mixtures thereof.

[0627] As additional soft-focus fillers that may be used according to the invention, mention may notably be made of: [0628] - talc/Ti02/alumina/silica composite powders, for instance those sold under the name Coverleaf AR-80® by the company Catalyst & Chemicals;

[0629] - silica/Ti02 composites such as those sold by the company Sunjin Chemical under the name Sunsil Tin 50®;

[0630] - acrylic polymer powders, notably hollow or filled spheres or spheres of core shell structure based on crosslinked polymethyl (meth)acrylate (PMMA) polymer, for instance the PMMA Jurimer MBI® particles from Nihon Junyoki with a mean size of 8 pm, those sold under the name Covabead LH 85® by the company Sensient Cosmetic Technologies; hollow PMMA spheres, such as those sold under the name Ganzpearl GMP0820® by the company Ganz Chemical; hollow spheres based on polymethyl (meth)acrylate and mineral oil (INCI name: Methyl Methacrylate Crosspolymer and Mineral Oil) for instance those sold under the name Sepimat H10® by the company SEPPIC or those sold under the name Microsphere M-310® from Matsumito Yuchi-Seiyaku; spherical particles of core shell structure of crosslinked polymethyl (meth)acrylate polymer surface-coated with a polymethylsilsesquioxane resin, sold under the name Silcrusta MK03® by the company Kobo; the expanded vinylidene/acrylonitrile/methylene methacrylate microspheres sold under the name Expancel®; crosslinked copolymers of at least one monomer chosen from acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or an ester thereof (INCI name: Acrylates/Ethylhexyl Acrylate Crosspolymer) notably in the form of hollow spheres such as those sold by the company Daito Kasei Kogyo under the name Makibeads SP-10® or those sold by the company Serisui Plastics under the name Techpolymer ACP-8C®;

[0631 ] - hydrophobic silica aerogel particles (INCI name: Silica Silylate), such as those sold by the company Dow Corning under the name Dow Corning VM- 2270® Aerogel Fine Particles;

[0632] - powders of crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane, such as Dow Corning 9701 Cosmetic Powder® from the company Dow Corning (INCI name: DimethiconeA/inyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer); or those sold by the company Dow Corning under the name EP-9801® Hydrocosmetic Powder (INCI name: DimethiconeA/inyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer (and) Butylene Glycol; [0633] - powders of crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane coated with silicone resin, notably with silsesquioxane resin, as described, for example, in the patent US 5 538 793. Such elastomer powders are sold under the names KSP- 100®, KSP-101®, KSP-102®, KSP-103®, KSP-104® and KSP-105® by the company Shin-Etsu, and have the INCI name: Vinyl Dimethicone/Methicone Silsesquioxane Crosspolymer or the INCI name: Vinyl Dimethicone/Methicone Silsesquioxane Crosspolymer (and) PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate (and) Methylsilanol Tri-PEG-8 Glyceryl Cocoate (and) Polyquaternium-7 sold under the name MW- SRP-100® by the company Miyoshi Kasei or under the name Tospearl AQ Microspheres® by the company Momentive Performance Materials;

[0634] - starch powders, in particular aluminum starch octenylsuccinate, such as the product sold by the company AkzoNobel under the name Dry Flo Plus;

[0635] - polyamide powders, such as the Nylon® 12 powder, notably the

product sold under the name Orgasol 2002 Extra D Nat Cos® by the company Atochem;

[0636] - spherical cellulose beads, such as those sold by the company Daito Kasei under the name Cellulobeads USF®;

[0637] - and mixtures thereof.

[0638] According to another preferred embodiment, the additional soft-focus fillers used according to the invention are chosen from acrylic polymer powders, notably hollow or filled spheres or spheres of core-shell structure based on crosslinked polymethyl (meth)acrylate (PMMA) polymer, for instance the PMMA Jurimer MBI® particles from Nihon Junyoki with a mean size of 8 pm, those sold under the name Covabead LH 85® by the company Sensient Cosmetic

Technologies; hollow PMMA spheres, such as those sold under the name Ganzpearl GMP0820® by the company Ganz Chemical; hollow spheres based on polymethyl (meth)acrylate and mineral oil (INCI name: Methyl Methacrylate Crosspolymer and Paraffinum Liquid) for instance those sold under the name Sepimat H 10® by the company SEPPIC or those sold under the name

Microsphere M-310® from Matsumito Yuchi-Seiyaku; spherical particles of core shell structure of crosslinked polymethyl (meth)acrylate polymer surface-coated with a polymethylsilsesquioxane resin, sold under the name Silcrusta MK03® by the company Kobo; the expanded vinylidene/acrylonitrile/methylene methacrylate microspheres sold under the name Expancel®; crosslinked copolymers of at least one monomer chosen from acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or an ester thereof (INCI name: Acrylates/Ethylhexyl Acrylate Crosspolymer) notably in the form of hollow spheres such as those sold by the company Daito Kasei Kogyo under the name Makibeads SP-10® or those sold by the company Serisui Plastics under the name Techpolymer ACP-8C®;

[0639] According to another particular embodiment, the soft-focus fillers used

according to the invention are chosen from

[0640] - hollow or filled spheres or spheres with a core-shell structure based on

crosslinked polymethyl (meth)acrylate polymer,

[0641 ] - crosslinked copolymers of at least one monomer chosen from acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or an ester thereof, and

[0642] - mixtures thereof.

[0643] According to another particular embodiment, the soft-focus fillers used

according to the invention are boron nitride particles and at least one additional soft-focus filler chosen from crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane powders coated with silicone resin, notably with silsesquioxane resin, such as those sold under the names KSP-100®, KSP-101®, KSP-102®, KSP-103®, KSP-104® and KSP-105® by the company Shin-Etsu and which have the INCI name: Vinyl Dimethicone/Methicone Silsesquioxane Crosspolymer or the INCI name: Vinyl Dimethicone/Methicone Silsesquioxane Crosspolymer (and) PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate (and) Methylsilanol Tri-PEG-8 Glyceryl Cocoate (and) Polyquaternium-7 sold under the name MW-SRP-100® by the company Miyoshi Kasei or under the name Tospearl AQ Microspheres® by the company Momentive Performance Materials; and mixtures thereof.

[0644] A composition according to the invention may comprise from 0.2% to 40% by weight, notably from 1 % to 30% by weight, in particular from 5% to 25% by weight and preferably from 10% to 25% by total weight of soft-focus filler(s), i.e. boron nitride particles and additional soft-focus filler(s), relative to the total weight of said composition.

[0645] ENCAPSULATED PIGMENTS (DYES) [0646] As stated previously, the compositions of the invention contain at least one encapsulated pigment.

[0647] The term "encapsulated dye" means a dye which is contained in

microcapsules. In particular, the dye is a pigment, chosen notably from organic and mineral pigments, preferably mineral pigments.

[0648] The microcapsules may consist of one or more concentric layers around a core. The dye(s) may be present in the core and/or the layers around the core. The microcapsules may contain, for example, only one type of dye corresponding to a single color, or several types of dyes.

[0649] An encapsulated dye has the advantage of being sparingly visible in the

composition by means of its encapsulation, while at the same time being readily released from the microcapsule during application.

[0650] An encapsulated pigment is different from a coated pigment commonly used in makeup products. Specifically, whereas coated pigments include a chemical coating intended to improve the dispersion in the composition, encapsulated pigments include one or more physical layers forming a shell, the layers being relatively homogeneous and insulating the encapsulated pigment in a leaktight manner, so that each encapsulated pigment is clearly individualized in the composition, which is not the case for coated pigments.

[0651 ] The dyes that are encapsulated according to the invention may be chosen from pigments, lakes, and mixtures thereof.

[0652] According to a preferred embodiment, they will be pigments.

[0653] The pigments may be chosen from mineral pigments and organic pigments, which may or may not have been surface-treated, and mixtures thereof.

[0654] The pigments may be white or colored, and mineral and/or organic.

[0655] Among the mineral pigments are titanium dioxide, optionally surface-treated, zirconium oxide or cerium oxide, and also zinc oxide, iron (black, yellow or red) oxide or chromium oxide, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue, and metal powders, for instance aluminum powder and copper powder. [0656] Among the organic pigments that may be used in the invention, mention may be made of carbon black, pigments of D&C type, lakes based on cochineal carmine or on barium, strontium, calcium or aluminium, or alternatively the diketopyrrolopyrroles (DPPs) described in EP-A-542 669, EP-A-787 730, EP-A- 787 731 and WO-A96/08537.

[0657] Thus, the composition of the invention comprises at least encapsulated

pigments chosen from organic pigments, mineral pigments and mixtures thereof, preferably chosen from mineral pigments. In particular, the mineral pigment is chosen from metal oxides, such as a titanium oxide, zirconium oxide, cerium oxide, zinc oxide, iron oxide, ferric blue, chromium oxide and aluminum oxide, in particular chosen from titanium oxides and iron oxides, and mixtures thereof.

[0658] The pigments are preferably encapsulated in microcapsules that are both resistant to the other starting materials present in the composition and quite supple to be able to break under shear during application so as thus to deliver the desired color.

[0659] Thus, the encapsulated pigments are "activated" during the application of the composition. In other words, after activation, the pigments give the composition applied to the keratin material a coloring which is different from that of the composition in its packaging.

[0660] Before application, the composition may notably have, in its packaging, any shade, for example white or gray, associated with the other ingredients of the composition, whereas, once the pigments have been activated on application, it advantageously reveals a coloring desired by the user.

[0661 ] The revelation of the color by the pigments may also partly be the result of variations in pH or temperature between the cosmetic composition in its packaging and once it has been applied to the keratin material. The placing in contact of the encapsulated pigments, during the application of the composition to the skin, with water or other fluids present on the surface of the skin may also promote the development of the coloring.

[0662] The mixture obtained on application may constitute a colored makeup and/or care composition, for example a fluid foundation, a concealer product or an eye contour product, a lipstick, a liquid gloss, a face powder, an eyeliner, a mascara, an eyeshadow, a body or hair makeup product, or a skin coloring product.

[0663] In particular, it may be a skin makeup composition, and notably a foundation.

[0664] The shells of the microcapsules may comprise one or more layers, which are notably concentric, around the central core, and may be made of materials chosen, for example, from the following materials:

[0665] - hot-melt compounds with a melting point of between 30 and 70°C, preferably between 37 and 45°C, for example such as those described in the patent application US 2006/0292193 A1 ; examples that may also be mentioned include the microcapsules consisting of jojoba esters, sold under the reference

Florasome by the company Floratech, and described in the patents US 6 432 428 and WO 2006/081351 ;

[0666] - polymers or copolymers such as polyacrylates, or methacrylates, and vinyl polymers. Examples that may be mentioned include the microcapsules based on acrylate/ammonium methacrylate copolymer sold by the company Tagra

Biotechnologies Ltd and described in the publication WO 01/35933;

[0667] - polysaccharides such as cellulose derivatives, for instance

hydroxymethylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose and carboxymethylcellulose; starch; chitosan; algins; alginates; agars; agaroses; pectins; polypectates or carrageenans;

[0668] - polyamides;

[0669] - copolymers based on styrene/acrylate, such as the microcapsules sold

under the name Coloursphere the company Creations Couleurs;

[0670] - and mixtures thereof.

[0671 ] Thus, the composition of the invention comprises pigments encapsulated in microcapsules chosen from:

[0672] - microcapsules formed from jojoba esters;

[0673] - microcapsules of polymers or copolymers such as polyacrylates or

methacrylates, or vinyl polymers; [0674] - microcapsules of polysaccharides such as cellulose derivatives, for instance hydroxymethylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose and carboxymethylcellulose; starch; chitosan; algins; alginates; agars; agaroses; pectins; polypectates or carrageenans;

[0675] - microcapsules of polyamides;

[0676] - microcapsules of copolymers based on styrene/acrylate;

[0677] - and mixtures thereof.

[0678] According to a preferred mode, the microencapsulated pigment may notably be contained in microcapsules based on acrylic polymers, polysaccharides, notably cellulose derivatives, or mixtures thereof.

[0679] The size of the microcapsules, i.e. their number-mean diameter, may range, for example, from 5 to 3000 pm, preferably from 10 to 1500 pm, more preferably from 20 to 700 pm.

[0680] The percentage of pigment relative to the total weight of the encapsulated pigment (weight of the encapsulated pigment = weight of the capsule + weight of the pigment) may vary to a large extent. The amount of pigment may range, for example, from 1 % to 95% by weight, preferably from 10% to 90% by weight and even more preferentially from 15% to 75% by weight, relative to the total weight of the encapsulated pigment.

[0681 ] The composition according to the invention may contain a total amount of encapsulated pigment(s) (weight of the capsule + weight of the pigment(s)) ranging, for example, from 0.1 % to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.1 % to 2% by weight and even more preferentially from 0.1 % to 1 % by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0682] Use may also be made in the same composition of several kinds of capsules containing encapsulated pigments and made of different encapsulating materials

[0683] Besides the pigments, the capsules may contain additives, for instance

plasticizers and/or opacifiers in order for the color of the encapsulated pigments to be attenuated, for example. [0684] As pigments encapsulated with microcapsules made of acrylic acid and/or methacrylic acid polymers or copolymers, examples that may be mentioned include microcapsules based on ammonium salts of ethyl acrylate/methacrylic acid copolymer, sold by the company Tagra and described in WO-A- 01/35933.

In particular, mention may be made of the encapsulated pigments sold by Tagra Biotechnologies under the name Blackcapl®, Yellowcapl®, Redcapl®, of INCI name: iron oxide (and) titanium oxide (and) boron nitride (and)

acrylates/ammonium methacrylate copolymer (and) triethyl citrate; mention may also be made of the encapsulated pigments sold by Tagra Biotechnologies under the name Blackcap3®, Yellowcap3®, Redcap3® of INCI name composed of several ingredients: titanium dioxide (and) iron oxide (and) isopropyl myristate (and) acrylates/ammonium methacrylate copolymer (and) triethyl citrate.

[0685] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the composition of the

invention comprises at least encapsulated pigments of microcapsules based on acrylate/ammonium methacrylate copolymer, and is more particularly chosen from titanium dioxide, yellow iron oxides, red iron oxides, black iron oxides, encapsulated in microcapsules based on acrylate/ammonium methacrylate copolymer, in particular those sold by the company Tagra Biotechnologies.

[0686] According to a particularly preferred form, the composition according to the invention comprises

[0687] - at least boron nitride particles; and

[0688] - at least one encapsulated pigment, preferably three encapsulated pigments that are different from each other, of microcapsules(s) based on

acrylate/ammonium methacrylate copolymer, and is more particularly chosen from titanium dioxide, yellow iron oxides, red iron oxides, black iron oxides, encapsulated in microcapsules based on acrylate/ammonium methacrylate copolymer, in particular those sold by the company Tagra Biotechnologies.

[0689] DISPERSANT

[0690] Advantageously, a composition according to the invention also comprises a dispersant, which is in particular capable of dispersing the solid particles in the composition. [0691 ] Such a dispersant in accordance with the invention is chosen from non- starchy polysaccharides.

[0692] According to a particular embodiment variant, a composition according to the invention comprises from 0.01 % to 0.5% by weight of dispersant, in particular non-starchy polysaccharides, preferably from 0.01 % to 0.1 % by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0693] I. B. Non-starchy polysaccharides

[0694] In general, the non-starchy polysaccharides may be chosen from

polysaccharides produced by microorganisms; polysaccharides isolated from algae, and higher plant polysaccharides, such as homogeneous polysaccharides, in particular celluloses and derivatives thereof, heterogeneous polysaccharides such as gum arabics, galactomannans, glucomannans, and derivatives thereof; and mixtures thereof.

[0695] In particular, the polysaccharides may be chosen from glucans, amylose, amylopectin, glycogen, celluloses and derivatives thereof, in particular

methylcelluloses, hydroxyalkylcelluloses and ethylhydroxyethylcelluloses, mannans, xylans, lignins, arabans, galactans, galacturonans, chitin, chitosans, glucuronoxylans, arabinoxylans, xyloglucans, glucomannans, arabinogalactans, glycosaminoglucans, gum arabics, tragacanth gums, ghatti gums, karaya gums, locust bean gums, galactomannans such as guar gums and nonionic derivatives thereof, in particular hydroxypropyl guar, and ionic derivatives thereof,

biopolysaccharide gums of microbial origin, in particular scleroglucan gums, or mucopolysaccharides, and in particular chondroitin sulfates, and mixtures thereof.

[0696] These polysaccharides may be chemically modified, notably with urea or

urethane groups or by hydrolysis, oxidation, esterification, etherification, sulfatation, phosphatation, amination, amidation or alkylation reaction, or by several of these modifications.

[0697] Such a gelling agent may be used in a proportion of from 0.1 % to 8% by

weight of solids relative to the total weight of the aqueous phase, notably from 0.1 % to 6% by weight. [0698] More precisely, these polysaccharides that are suitable for use in the invention may be distinguished according to whether they are derived from microorganisms, from algae or from higher plants, and are detailed below.

[0699] Polysaccharides produced by microorganisms

[0700] Succinoglycan

[0701 ] Succinoglycan is an extracellular polymer of high molecular weight produced by bacterial fermentation, constituted of octasaccharide repeating units (repetition of 8 sugars). Succinoglycans are sold, for example, under the name Rheozan by the company Rhodia.

[0702] Scleroglucan

[0703] Scleroglucan is a nonionic branched homopolysaccharide constituted of b-D- glucan units. The molecules consist of a linear main chain formed from D-glucose units linked via b(1 ,3) bonds and of which one in three is linked to a side D- glucose unit via a b(1 ,6) bond.

[0704] A more complete description of scleroglucans and of their preparation may be found in US 3 301 848.

[0705] Scleroglucan is sold, for example, under the name Amigum by the company Alban MCiller, or under the name Actigum™ CS by the company Cargill.

[0706] Polysaccharides isolated from algae

[0707] Galactans

[0708] The polysaccharide according to the invention may be a galactan chosen notably from agar.

[0709] Galactans of agar type are galactose polysaccharides contained in the cell wall of some of these species of red algae (rhodophyceae). They are formed from a polymer group of which the backbone is a b(1 ,3) D-galactopyranose and a(1 ,4) L 3-6 anhydrogalactose chain, these units repeating regularly and alternately.

The differences within the agar family are due to the presence or absence of solvated methyl or carboxyethyl groups. These hybrid structures are generally present in variable percentage, depending on the species of algae and the harvest season. [0710] Agar-agar is a mixture of polysaccharides (agarose and agaropectin) of high molecular weight, between 40 000 and 300 000 g.mol-1. It is obtained by manufacturing algal extraction liquors, generally by autoclaving, and by treating these liquors which comprise about 2% of agar-agar, so as to extract the latter.

[0711 ] Agar is produced, for example, by the group B&V Agar Producers under the names Gold Agar, Agarite and Grand Agar by the company Hispanagar, and under the names Agar-Agar, QSA (Quick Soluble Agar), and Puragar by the company Setexam.

[0712] Furcellaran

[0713] Furcellaran is obtained commercially from red algae Furcellaria fasztigiata.

Furcellaran is produced, for example, by the company Est-Agar.

[0714] Polysaccharides of higher plants

[0715] This category of polysaccharides may be divided into homogeneous

polysaccharides (only one saccharide species) and heterogeneous

polysaccharides composed of several types of saccharides.

[0716] a) Flomogeneous polysaccharides and derivatives thereof

[0717] The polysaccharide according to the invention may be chosen from celluloses and derivatives or fructosans.

[0718] Cellulose and derivatives

[0719] The polysaccharide according to the invention may also be a cellulose or a derivative thereof, notably cellulose ethers or esters (e.g.: methylcellulose, carboxymethylcellulose, hydroxymethylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxymethylpropylcellulose, cellulose acetate, cellulose nitrate, nitrocellulose).

[0720] The hydroxyethylcellulose that is suitable for use in the invention is sold, for example, under the name Cellosize™ QP 4400 FI by the company Amerchol (Dow Chemical).

[0721 ] The invention may also contain a cellulose-based associative polymer.

According to the invention, the term "cellulose-based compound" means any polysaccharide compound bearing in its structure linear sequences of anhydroglucopyranose residues (AGUs) linked together via b(1 ,4) glycoside bonds. The repeating unit is the cellobiose dimer. The AGUs are in chair conformation and bear 3 hydroxyl functions: 2 secondary alcohols (in position 2 and 3) and a primary alcohol (in position 6). The polymers thus formed combine together via intermolecular bonds of hydrogen bond type, thus giving the cellulose a fibrillar structure (about 1500 molecules per fiber).

[0722] The degree of polymerization differs enormously depending on the origin of the cellulose; its value may range from a few hundred to several tens of thousands.

[0723] Cellulose has the following chemical structure:

[0724] [Chem. 18]

[0725] The hydroxyl groups of cellulose may react partially or totally with various chemical reagents to give cellulose derivatives having intrinsic properties. The cellulose derivatives may be anionic, cationic, amphoteric or nonionic. Among these derivatives, cellulose ethers, cellulose esters and cellulose ester ethers are distinguished.

[0726] Among the nonionic cellulose ethers, mention may be made of alkylcelluloses such as methylcelluloses and ethylcelluloses; hydroxyalkylcelluloses such as hydroxymethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylcelluloses and hydroxypropylcelluloses; and mixed hydroxyalkylalkylcelluloses such as hydroxypropylmethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylmethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylethylcelluloses and

hydroxybutylmethylcelluloses.

[0727] Among the anionic cellulose ethers, mention may be made of

carboxyalkylcelluloses and salts thereof. By way of example, mention may be made of carboxymethylcelluloses, carboxymethylmethylcelluloses and carboxymethylhydroxyethylcelluloses and sodium salts thereof.

[0728] Among the cationic cellulose ethers, mention may be made of crosslinked or non-crosslinked quaternized hydroxyethylcelluloses.

[0729] The quaternizing agent may notably be glycidyltrirnethylammonium chloride or a fatty amine such as laurylamine or stearylamine. Another cationic cellulose ether that may be mentioned is

hydroxyethylcellulosehydroxypropyltrimethylammonium.

[0730] The quaternized cellulose derivatives are, in particular:

[0731 ] - quaternized celluloses modified with groups including at least one fatty

chain, such as alkyl, arylalkyl or alkylaryl groups including at least 8 carbon atoms, or mixtures thereof,

[0732] - quaternized hydroxyethylcelluloses modified with groups including at least one fatty chain, such as alkyl, arylalkyl or alkylaryl groups including at least 8 carbon atoms, or mixtures thereof.

[0733] The alkyl radicals borne by the above quaternized celluloses or

hydroxyethylcelluloses preferably include from 8 to 30 carbon atoms.

[0734] The aryl radicals preferably denote phenyl, benzyl, naphthyl or anthryl groups.

[0735] Examples of quaternized alkylhydroxyethylcelluloses containing C8-C30 fatty chains that may be indicated include the products Quatrisoft LM 200, Quatrisoft LM-X529-18-A, Quatrisoft LM-X529-18B (C12 alkyl) and Quatrisoft LM-X529-8 (C18 alkyl) sold by the company Amerchol and the products Crodacel QM, Crodacel QL (C12 alkyl) and Crodacel QS (C18 alkyl) sold by the company Croda.

[0736] Among the cellulose derivatives, mention may also be made of:

[0737] - celluloses modified with groups including at least one fatty chain, for instance hydroxyethylcelluloses modified with groups including at least one fatty chain such as alkyl, notably of C8-C22, arylalkyl and alkylaryl groups, such as Natrosol Plus Grade 330 CS (C16 alkyls) sold by the company Aqualon, and [0738] - celluloses modified with polyalkylene glycol ether alkyl phenol groups, such as the product Amercell Polymer HM-1500 (polyethylene glycol (15) ether of nonyl phenol) sold by the company Amerchol.

[0739] Among the cellulose esters are inorganic esters of cellulose (cellulose

nitrates, sulfates, phosphates, etc.), organic esters of cellulose (cellulose monoacetates, triacetates, amidopropionates, acetatebutyrates,

acetatepropionates and acetatetrimellitates, etc.), and mixed organic/inorganic esters of cellulose, such as cellulose acetatebutyrate sulfates and cellulose acetatepropionate sulfates. Among the cellulose ester ethers, mention may be made of hydroxypropylmethylcellulose phthalates and ethylcellulose sulfates.

[0740] The cellulose-based compounds of the invention may be chosen from

unsubstituted celluloses and substituted celluloses.

[0741 ] The celluloses and derivatives are represented, for example, by the products sold under the names Avicel® (microcrystalline cellulose, MCC) by the company FMC Biopolymers, under the name Cekol (carboxymethylcellulose) by the company Noviant (CP-Kelco), under the name Akucell AF (sodium

carboxymethylcellulose) by the company AkzoNobel, under the name

MethocelTM (cellulose ethers) and Ethocel™ (ethylcellulose) by the company Dow, and under the names Aqualon® (carboxymethylcellulose and sodium carboxymethylcellulose), Benecel® (methylcellulose), Blanose™

(carboxymethylcellulose), Culminal® (methylcellulose,

hydroxypropylmethylcellulose), Klucel® (hydroxypropylcellulose), Polysurf® (cetylhydroxyethylcellulose) and Natrosol® CS (hydroxyethylcellulose) by the company Flercules Aqualon.

[0742] b) Fleterogeneous polysaccharides and derivatives thereof

[0743] The polysaccharides that may be used according to the invention may be gums, for instance cassia gum, karaya gum, konjac gum, gum tragacanth, tara gum, acacia gum or gum arabic.

[0744] Gum arabic

[0745] Gum arabics or acacia gums are extrudates of the sap of trees from the

acacia family, notably Accacia Senegal L. Willdenow or from other similar species such as the Leguminosae family. [0746] These said gums are notably of natural origin.

[0747] Gum arabic is a highly branched acidic polysaccharide which is in the form of mixtures of potassium, magnesium and calcium salts. The monomer elements of the free acid (arabic acid) are D-galactose, L-arabinose, L-rhamnose and D- glucuronic acid.

[0748] A gum arabic or acacia gum that is suitable for use in the invention is sold, for example, under the name Spraygum SC10 by the company Nexira

[0749] Galactomannans (guar, locust bean, fenugreek, tara gum) and derivatives (guar phosphate, hydroxypropyl guar, etc.)

[0750] Galactomannans are nonionic polyosides extracted from the endosperm of leguminous seeds, of which they constitute the storage carbohydrate.

[0751 ] Galactomannans are macromolecules constituted of a main chain of b(1 ,4)- linked D-mannopyranose units, bearing side branches constituted of a single D- galactopyranose unit a(1 ,6)-linked to the main chain. The various

galactomannans differ, firstly, by the proportion of a-D-galactopyranose units present in the polymer, and secondly by significant differences in terms of distribution of galactose units along the mannose chain.

[0752] The mannose/galactose (M/G) ratio is about 2 for guar gum, 3 for tara gum and 4 for locust bean gum.

[0753] Galactomannans have the following chemical structure:

[0754] [Chem. 19]

m *> 3: Locust beam gum

m■ I : Goar gum

m - 2: Tara gum

[0755] Guar [0756] Guar gum is characterized by a mannose:galactose ratio of the order of 2: 1. The galactose group is regularly distributed along the mannose chain.

[0757] The guar gums that may be used according to the invention may be nonionic, cationic or anionic. According to the invention, use may be made of chemically modified or unmodified nonionic guar gums.

[0758] The unmodified nonionic guar gums are, for example, the products sold under the names Vidogum GH®, Vidogum G® and Vidocrem® by the company

Unipektin and under the name Jaguar by the company Rhodia, under the name Meypro® Guar by the company Danisco, under the name Viscogum™ by the company Cargill, and under the name Supercol® guar gum by the company Aqualon.

[0759] The hydrolyzed nonionic guar gums that may be used according to the

invention are represented, for example, by the products sold under the name Meyprodor® by the company Danisco.

[0760] The modified nonionic guar gums that may be used according to the invention are preferably modified with C1 -C6 hydroxyalkyl groups, among which mention may be made, as examples, of hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl, hydroxypropyl and hydroxybutyl groups.

[0761 ] Such nonionic guar gums optionally modified with hydroxyalkyl groups are sold, for example, under the trade names Jaguar HP 60®, Jaguar HP 105® and Jaguar HP 120® (hydroxypropyl guar) by the company Rhodia or under the name N-Hance® HP (hydroxypropyl guar) by the company Aqualon.

[0762] The cationic galactomannan gums preferably have a cationic charge density of less than or equal to 1.5 meq./g, more particularly between 0.1 and 1 meq./g. The charge density may be determined by the Kjeldahl method. It generally corresponds to a pH of the order of 3 to 9.

[0763] In general, for the purposes of the present invention, the term "cationic

galactomannan gum" means any galactomannan gum containing cationic groups and/or groups that can be ionized into cationic groups.

[0764] The preferred cationic groups are chosen from those including primary,

secondary, tertiary and/or quaternary amine groups. [0765] The cationic galactomannan gums used generally have a weight-average molecular mass of between 500 and 5x106 approximately and preferably between 103 and 3x106 approximately.

[0766] The cationic galactomannan gums that may be used according to the present invention are, for example, gums including tri(Ci-C4)alkylammonium cationic groups. Preferably, 2% to 30% by number of the hydroxyl functions of these guar gums bear trialkylammonium cationic groups.

[0767] Mention may very particularly be made, among these trialkylammonium

groups, of the trimethylammonium and triethylammonium groups.

[0768] Even more preferentially, these groups represent from 5% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the modified galactomannan gum.

[0769] According to the invention, the cationic galactomannan gum is preferably a guar gum including hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium groups, i.e. a guar gum modified, for example, with 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride.

[0770] These galactomannan gums, in particular guar gums modified with cationic groups, are products already known per se and are, for example, described in patents US 3 589 578 and US 4 031 307. Such products are moreover sold notably under the trade names Jaguar Excel®, Jaguar C13 S®, Jaguar C 15®, Jaguar C 17® and Jaguar C162® (Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride) by the company Rhodia, under the name Amilan® Guar (Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride) by the company Degussa, and under the name N-Hance® 3000 (Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride) by the company Aqualon.

[0771 ] The anionic guar gums that may be used according to the invention are

polymers including groups derived from carboxylic, sulfonic, sulfenic, phosphoric, phosphonic or pyruvic acid. The anionic group is preferably a carboxylic acid group. The anionic group may also be in the form of an acid salt, notably a sodium, calcium, lithium or potassium salt.

[0772] The anionic guar gums that may be used according to the invention are

preferentially carboxymethyl guar derivatives (carboxym ethyl guar or

carboxymethyl hydroxypropyl guar).

[0773] Locust bean [0774] Locust bean gum is extracted from the seeds of the locust bean tree

( Ceratonia siliqua).

[0775] The unmodified locust bean gum that may be used in this invention is sold, for example, under the name Viscogum™ by the company Cargill, under the name Vidogum L by the company Unipektin and under the name Grinsted® LBG by the company Danisco.

[0776] The chemically modified locust bean gums that may be used in this invention may be represented, for example, by the cationic locust beans sold under the name Catinal CLB® (locust bean hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride) by the company Toho.

[0777] Tara gum

[0778] The tara gum that may be used in the context of this invention is sold, for example, under the name Vidogum SP® by the company Unipektin.

[0779] Glucomannans (konjac gum)

[0780] Glucomannan is a polysaccharide of high molecular weight

[0781 ] (500 000 < Mglucomannan < 2 000 000) composed of D-mannose and D- glucose units with a branch every 50 or 60 units approximately. It is found in wood, but is also the main constituent of konjac gum. Konjac ( Amorphophallus konjac) is a plant of the Araceae family.

[0782] The products that may be used according to the invention are sold, for

example, under the names Propol® and Rheolex® by the company Shimizu.

[0783] According to a preferred mode, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one non-starchy polysaccharide chosen from celluloses and derivatives thereof, fructosans and derivatives thereof, gums such as gum arabic, cassia gum, karaya gum, konjac gum, gum tragacanth; tara gum.

[0784] According to a particularly preferred mode, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one non-starchy polysaccharide chosen from hydroxyethylcellulose and gum arabic or acacia gum.

[0785] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises

hydroxyethylcellulose. [0786] In an advantageous embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises boron nitride particles and at least one dispersant, such as a non- starchy polysaccharide, in a [dispersant, preferably non-starchy

polysaccharide(s)]/[boron nitride particles] weight ratio ranging from 0.001 to 0.5, preferably ranging from 0.005 to 0.2.

[0787] When the dispersant for the composition according to the invention is

hydroxyethylcellulose, the [hydroxyethylcellulose]/[boron nitride particles] weight ratio is from 0.01 to 0.025, and is preferably 0.014.

[0788] When the dispersant for the composition according to the invention is gum arabic the [gum arabic]/[boron nitride particles] weight ratio is from 0.05 to 0.15, and is preferably 0.09.

[0789] COVERAGE/OPACITY PROPERTIES

[0790] The compositions of the invention notably have a coverage characterized by a contrast ratio (CR) which may range from 16% to 80%, preferably ranging from 45% to 79%.

[0791 ] The coverage is measured according to the protocol as described in the

example section below.

[0792] AQUEOUS PHASE

[0793] The aqueous phase comprises at least water and may also comprise organic solvents that are water-miscible (at room temperature: 25°C), for instance monoalcohols containing from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as ethanol or isopropanol; polyols notably containing from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably containing from 2 to 10 carbon atoms and preferentially containing from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as glycerol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, dipropylene glycol or diethylene glycol; glycol ethers (notably containing from 3 to 16 carbon atoms) such as mono-, di- or tripropylene glycol (C1-C4)alkyl ethers, mono-, di- or triethylene glycol (C1- C4)alkyl ethers, and mixtures thereof.

[0794] A water that is suitable for use in the invention may be a floral water such as cornflower water and/or a mineral water such as Vittel® water, Lucas® water or La Roche Posay® water and/or a spring water. [0795] The overall aqueous phase, including all the hydrophilic substances of the composition that are capable of being dissolved in this same phase, is preferably present in the composition in a content preferably ranging from 5% to 98% by weight, more preferentially from 5% to 95% by weight, better still from 25% to 75% by weight, and more particularly from 25% to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition.

[0796] OILY PHASE

[0797] The composition of the invention comprises a liquid fatty phase. Said phase is liquid (in the absence of structuring agent) at room temperature (20-25°C).

Preferentially, the water-immiscible organic liquid phase in accordance with the invention generally comprises at least one volatile oil and/or one nonvolatile oil.

[0798] The term“oil” means a fatty substance that is liquid at room temperature

(25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, i.e. 10 ⁵ Pa). The oil may be volatile or nonvolatile.

[0799] For the purposes of the invention, the term“volatile oil” means an oil that is capable of evaporating on contact with the skin or the keratin fiber in less than one hour, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile oils of the invention are volatile cosmetic oils, which are liquid at room temperature, having a nonzero vapor pressure, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, ranging in particular from 0.13 Pa to 40 000 Pa (10 ^-3 to 300 mmHg), in particular ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13 000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg) and more particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mmHg).

[0800] The term“nonvolatile oil” means an oil that remains on the skin or the keratin fiber at room temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours, and that notably has a vapor pressure of less than 10 ^-3 mmHg (0.13 Pa).

[0801 ] The oil may be chosen from any oil, preferably physiologically acceptable oils, notably mineral, animal, plant or synthetic oils; in particular volatile or nonvolatile hydrocarbon-based oils and/or silicone oils and/or fluoro oils, and mixtures thereof.

[0802] More precisely, the term“hydrocarbon-based oil” means an oil mainly

including carbon and hydrogen atoms and optionally one or more functions chosen from hydroxyl, ester, ether and carboxylic functions. Generally, the oil has a viscosity of from 0.5 to 100 000 mPa.s, preferably from 50 to 50 000 mPa.s and more preferably from 100 to 300 000 mPa.s.

[0803] As examples of volatile oils that may be used in the invention, mention may be made of:

[0804] - volatile hydrocarbon-based oils chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils

containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and notably C8-C16 isoalkanes of petroleum origin (also known as isoparaffins), for instance isododecane (also known as 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane, isohexadecane and for example the oils sold under the trade names Isopar or Permethyl, branched C8- C16 esters and isohexyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof. Other volatile hydrocarbon-based oils, for instance petroleum distillates, notably those sold under the name Shell Solt by the company Shell, may also be used; volatile linear alkanes, such as those described in patent application DE10 2008 012 457 from the company Cognis;

[0805] - volatile silicones, for instance linear or cyclic volatile silicone oils, notably those with a viscosity of < 8 centistokes (8 ^c 10 ^-6 m2/s), and notably containing from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally including alkyl or alkoxy groups containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms. As volatile silicone oils that may be used in the invention, mention may notably be made of caprylyl methicone, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane,

dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane,

heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane and dodecamethylpentasiloxane;

[0806] - and mixtures thereof.

[0807] As examples of nonvolatile oils that may be used in the invention, mention may be made of:

[0808] - hydrocarbon-based oils of animal origin, such as perhydrosqualene;

[0809] - hydrocarbon-based oils of plant origin such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids of 4 to 24 carbon atoms, for instance caprylic/capric acid triglycerides such as those sold by the company Stearinerie Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel; [0810] - linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral or synthetic origin, such as liquid paraffins and derivatives thereof, petroleum jelly, polydecenes,

polybutenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam, or squalane;

[0811 ] - synthetic ethers containing from 10 to 40 carbon atoms, such as

dicaprylyl ether;

[0812] - synthetic esters, notably of fatty acids, isononyl isononanoate,

isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, C12-C15 alcohol benzoate, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl stearate, 2- octyldodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate;

[0813] - fatty alcohols that are liquid at room temperature, containing a

branched and/or unsaturated carbon chain containing from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, for instance octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, 2-butyloctanol, 2- hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol or oleyl alcohol;

[0814] - higher fatty acids, such as oleic acid, linoleic acid or linolenic acid;

[0815] - carbonates, such as dicaprylyl carbonate;

[0816] - acetates;

[0817] - citrates;

[0818] - fluoro oils which are optionally partially hydrocarbon-based and/or silicone- based, such as fluorosilicone oils, fluoro polyethers and fluorosilicones as described in EP-A-847752;

[0819] - silicone oils such as nonvolatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS); phenyl

silicones such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones,

phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones,

diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates, and [0820] - mixtures thereof.

[0821 ] In a preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition also comprises at least one silicone gum chosen from polyorganosiloxanes with a weight-average molecular mass of greater than or equal to 400 000 g/mol. [0822] The weight-average molecular masses are measured in a manner that is conventional in the field, for example using gel permeation chromatography coupled to static light scattering (GPC-MALLS).

[0823] Preferably, the viscosity of the silicone gum is greater than 800 000 cSt and more particularly less than or equal to 10 000 000 cSt (at 25°C, measured by the standard ASTM D-445), more particularly between 1 000 000 and 5 000 000 cSt (at 25°C, measured by the standard ASTM D-445).

[0824] The term "silicone gum" more particularly means polyorganosiloxanes, in

particular linear non-crosslinked, optionally hydroxylated, phenylated or vinyl polydimethylsiloxanes, or combinations thereof. It should be noted that the silicone gums used according to the invention are not silicone elastomers.

[0825] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the silicone gum

corresponds to the following formula:

[0826] [Chem. 20]

[0827] in which:

[0828] R7, R8, R1 1 and R12 are identical or different, and each is chosen from alkyl radicals comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms,

[0829] R9 and R10 are identical or different, and each is chosen from an alkyl radical comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, an aryl radical, a hydroxyl radical, a vinyl radical, preferably bearing an alkyl radical comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, bearing a hydroxyl radical;

[0830] X is chosen from an alkyl radical comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a

hydroxyl radical, a vinyl radical, preferably bearing an alkyl radical comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a hydroxyl radical; [0831 ] n and p are chosen so as to give the silicone gum a molecular mass of greater than or equal to 400 000 g/mol.

[0832] In general, n and p may each take values ranging from 0 to 5000 and more particularly from 0 to 3000, given that n and p are not simultaneously zero.

[0833] According to a particular embodiment, the silicone gum is a

polydimethylsiloxane gum optionally comprising at least one aryl radical, a dimethiconol gum, or mixtures thereof, and preferably a dimethiconol gum.

[0834] The silicone gum(s) may be used alone or as a mixture, notably with a solvent chosen from volatile silicones, polydimethylsiloxane oils,

polyphenylmethylsiloxane oils, isoparaffins, in particular of C8-C16, methylene chloride, pentane, dodecane, tridecane and tetradecane, or mixtures thereof.

[0835] If the silicone gums are sold in predissolved form, the proportion of gum

usually represents from 5% to 20% by weight and preferably from 10% to 15% by weight in a linear or cyclic, volatile or nonvolatile polydimethylsiloxane of low molecular weight.

[0836] Among the silicone gums that may be used, mention may be made of those for which:

[0837] R7 to R12 represent a methyl group, the substituent X represents a hydroxyl group, the coefficients n and p being such that the molecular mass is greater than or equal to 400 000 g/mol:

[0838] product sold or manufactured under the name Xiameter® PMX-1401 Fluid by the company Dow Corning, in the form of a solution at 13% in

cyclopentasiloxane,

[0839] product sold or manufactured under the name Xiameter® PMX-1503 Fluid by the company Dow Corning, in the form of a solution at 12% in

polydimethylsiloxane,

[0840] product sold or manufactured under the name Xiameter® PMX-1403 Fluid by the company Dow Corning, in the form of a solution at 13% in

polydimethylsiloxane, [0841 ] R7, R8, R11 , R12 and X represent a methyl group and the substituents R9 and R10 represent an aryl group, the coefficients n and p being such that the molecular mass is greater than or equal to 400 000 g/mol:

[0842] product sold or manufactured under the name Mirasil® C-DPDM by the

company Bluestar.

[0843] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the silicone gum is a polydimethylsiloxane gum optionally comprising at least one aryl radical, a dimethiconol gum, or mixtures thereof, and preferably a dimethiconol gum.

[0844] In the compositions according to the invention, the silicone gum may be

present in an active material content ranging from 0.1 % to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 8% by weight, in particular from 0.3% to 6% by weight, and more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0845] According to a particular form of the invention, the overall oily phase, including all the lipophilic substances of the composition that are capable of being dissolved in this same phase, represents from 5% to 95% by weight and preferentially from 10% to 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0846] ADDITIVES

[0847] The compositions according to the invention may also contain additional cosmetic ingredients conventionally used for the formulation of particular presentation forms, generally adjusted with regard to the intended keratin material. This or these additional cosmetic ingredient(s) may notably be chosen from waxes, pasty fatty substances, film-forming polymers, nonionic, anionic or cationic surfactants, hydrophilic or lipophilic gelling agents, dispersants, hydrophilic or lipophilic active agents, preserving agents, antioxidants, solvents, fragrances, fillers other than the soft-focus fillers defined previously, sunscreens, bactericides, odor absorbers, additional dyestuffs other than the encapsulated pigments defined previously (for example: pigments, nacres, water-soluble or liposoluble dyes), salts, and mixtures thereof.

[0848] Thus, a cosmetic composition of the invention may also comprise at least one additional cosmetic ingredient chosen from waxes, pasty fatty substances, film forming polymers, nonionic, anionic or cationic surfactants, hydrophilic or lipophilic gelling agents, dispersants, hydrophilic or lipophilic active agents, preserving agents, antioxidants, solvents, fragrances, fillers other than the boron nitride particles or the additional soft-focus fillers defined previously, sunscreens, bactericides, odor absorbers, additional dyestuffs other than the encapsulated pigments defined previously (for example: pigments, nacres, water-soluble or liposoluble dyes), salts, and mixtures thereof.

[0849] The amounts of the additional cosmetic ingredients are those conventionally used in the field under consideration, for example from 0.01 % to 20% of the total weight of the composition and preferably from 0.01 % to 10% of the total weight of the composition.

[0850] Needless to say, a person skilled in the art will take care to select the optional additional ingredients and/or the amount thereof such that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not, or are not substantially, adversely affected by the envisaged addition.

[0851 ] Active agent

[0852] For a care application in particular, a composition according to the invention may comprise at least one moisturizer (also known as a humectant).

[0853] Preferably, the moisturizer is glycerol.

[0854] The moisturizer(s) may be present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.1 % to 15% by weight, notably from 0.5% to 10% by weight or even from 1 % to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.

[0855] As other active agents that may be used in the composition of the invention, examples that may be mentioned include vitamins, sunscreens, depigmenting agents, and mixtures thereof.

[0856] Preferably, a composition according to the invention comprises at least one active agent.

[0857] It is a matter of routine practice for a person skilled in the art to adjust the nature and the amount of the additives present in the compositions in accordance with the invention such that the desired cosmetic properties thereof are not thereby affected. [0858] According to one embodiment, a composition of the invention may

advantageously be in the form of a composition for caring for keratin materials such as the skin of the body or of the face, in particular of the face and/or of the area around the eyes, for making uniform the relief and/or color imperfections, with a natural result, notably for hiding and/or smoothing out the relief

imperfections of the skin, such as pores, wrinkles and/or fine lines, and/or for making uniform the complexion of face and/or neck skin, in particular for correcting diffuse marks or redness of the skin and/or for correcting redness of the area around the eyes, or the shadows under the eyes.

[0859] According to another embodiment, a composition of the invention may

advantageously be in the form of a makeup base composition.

[0860] According to another embodiment, a composition of the invention may

advantageously be in the form of a foundation.

[0861 ] According to another embodiment, a composition of the invention may

advantageously be in the form of a nail makeup and/or care product for hiding and/or smoothing out relief and color imperfections.

[0862] According to one embodiment, a composition of the invention may

advantageously be in the form of a makeup and/or care product for the area around the eyes, the shadows under the eyes, or the eyelids, such as an eyeshadow, or a concealer product.

[0863] According to one embodiment, a composition of the invention may

advantageously be in the form of a lip makeup and/or care composition for hiding and/or smoothing out relief and color imperfections.

[0864] Such compositions are notably prepared according to the general knowledge of a person skilled in the art.

[0865] The expressions "between ... and ..." and "ranging from ... to ..." should be understood as being inclusive of the limits, unless otherwise specified.

[0866] The invention is illustrated in greater detail by the examples and figures

presented below. Unless otherwise indicated, the amounts shown are expressed as mass percentages.

Example [0867] Rheological measurements

[0868] The viscosity and the behavior of a composition according to the invention were studied using a MARS III rheometer at 25°C (Mars: Modular Advanced Rheometer System).

[0869] Protocol for measuring the flow: measurement of the viscosity as a function of the change in stress.

[0870] In flow, the measurements are taken with controlled stress at equilibrium. The product is subjected to increasing stresses and the variation in the corresponding rate gradient is measured. The flow curve, representing the change in viscosity as a function of the shear gradient, is deduced therefrom. The measurements taken give access to very low shear and make it possible to estimate the flow threshold, i.e. the stress to be applied in order for the product to begin to flow.

[0871 ] The sample is set at a temperature of 25°C for 120 seconds by the Peltier effect. Stress flow is then effected in stages of 0.1 up to a maximum of 1000 Pa, and about 20 logarithmically distributed measurement points are recorded. These measurements are thus taken over a wide deformation range and describe the behavior and texture of the polymers at rest (low shear rate) and during uptake and spreading (high shear rates in the region of 500 to 1000 s-1 ).

[0872] Flow curve (CP35/2 spindle) for Composition 2 in accordance with the

invention:

[0873] [Tables 2]

[0874] The flow curve results show that a decrease in viscosity, a drastic increase in the viscosity of the composition between 1 s-1 and 10 s-1 and a very large decrease between 10 s-1 and 1000 s-1 are observed. [0875] Composition 2 according to the invention has a very low viscosity at 1000 s-1 and is thus sparingly viscous on application.

[0876] The compositions according to the invention with shear-thinning properties have a good play time on application and good glidance. [0877] Example 1 : compositions in gel/gel form

[0878] Procedure

[0879] The ingredients of the aqueous phase A were weighed out and said phase was then stirred using a Rayneri blender until homogeneous. The components of the oily phase B were weighed out and stirred using a Rayneri blender. The two phases were then mixed with stirring using a Rayneri blender. The ingredients of phase C were weighed out and added to the mixture with stirring using a Rayneri blender. The ingredients of phase D were mixed in a separate beaker until good dispersion was obtained. This dispersion was then added to the main beaker and the mixture was stirred using a Rayneri blender until a homogeneous formulation was obtained. For further details regarding the interconnection assembly 100 per se, reference may be made to the abovementioned documents.

[0880] [Tables 3]

[0881 ] The cosmetic properties of compositions 1 and 2 according to the invention and composition 3 outside the invention were evaluated.

[0882] Example 2: Soft-focus measurement: Haze principle

[0883] The soft focus is determined by measuring the Haze and the transparency, i.e. the perception of light at wide angles.

[0884] The Haze is an in vitro measurement for simulating the soft-focus effect of a formulation after application. The Hazegard quantifies the visual perception of a cosmetic film after drying by means of objective measurements. It measures the light intensity passing through a sample. It distinctly measures the direct transmittance (i.e. the transmittance in the same direction as the incident beam) or the hemispherical transmittance (transmittance in all spatial directions, which is equivalent to the total transmittance):

[0885] Transmittance (T in %): Transparency by transmission, i.e. the amount of light which passes through the sample. If T = 100%, the sample is as transparent as air; if T = 0%, the sample is totally opaque;

[0886] Haze (H or SF in %): H = (Tdiffuse/Ttotal) ^c 100, corresponding to the

measurement of the haze of a sample. If H = 100%, all the light beams are deviated, whereas if H = 0%, no transmitted light beam is deviated.

[0887] The measurements are taken using a Hazegard (Hazegard Plus C©, BYK- Gardner) on a film with a thickness of 25 pm, deposited on a PET film (PA- 2871©, BYK10 Gardner). Three measurements are taken at different places on the film after 1 hour of drying at room temperature. The values are then averaged.

[0888] The soft-focus results are given in the table below:

[0889] [Tables 4]

[0890] Surprisingly, compositions 1 and 2 in accordance with the invention,

comprising hydroxyethylcellulose or gum arabic, have better soft-focus

performance than compositions 3 and 4 outside the invention including or not including another dispersant.

[0891 ] In addition, compositions 1 and 2 in accordance with the invention have very good performance in terms of hiding the imperfections of keratin materials, notably of the skin, and also good performance in terms of glidance and tack. They are easy to apply, sparingly tacky, and glidant. They have a good play time and leave a soft finish on the skin.

[0892] Example 3: Evaluation of the coverage/opacity properties

[0893] The coverage is measured according to the following protocol:

[0894] Coverage Measurement

[0895] The application may be performed with an automatic spreader.

[0896] The coverage (contrast ratio) of the first and second compositions is

evaluated by preparing a 25 pm film on a contrast card (such as a BYK Chart PA- 2814) having a white part and a black part, using an automatic spreader.

[0897] It is left to dry for 1 hour at room temperature: (20-25°C)

[0898] Color measurements were taken using a Minolta CM600d spectrocolorimeter.

The colorimeter gives numerical data representing the absolute value and the color difference between a reference sample and a sample to be controlled. In our study, we use the absolute values of each film sample on the white

background for the color, integrating the black background for the calculation of the contrast ratio. [0899] The operating conditions are as follows:

[0900] CIE 1964 10° standard observer

[0901 ] llluminant: CIE D65 type

[0902] Measuring geometry: Scattered measuring geometry/8° and observation

D65/10°, specular component included (SCI) mode, mean aperture (10 mm) on the white and black backgrounds.

[0903] The apparatus is equipped with an optical device that produces scattered light, placed in a spherical cavity lined with a white coat, which induces multiple reflection of the light. An anti-glare trap can remove the glare effects from the surface of the sample.

[0904] The spectra are expressed as colorimetric coordinates in the Commission Internationale de I’Eclairage CIELab76 space according to the recommendation 15:2004.

[0905] The contrast ratio is calculated by taking the arithmetic mean of the Y values on the black background, divided by the mean value of Y on the white

background, multiplied by 100.

[0906] [Math 1 ]

Mean(Yblack )

Contrast Ratio = 100

Mean(Ywhite )

[0907] The contrast ratio results are given in the table below:

[0908] [Tables 5]

[0909] Surprisingly, compositions 1 and 2 in accordance with the invention,

comprising hydroxyethylcelluloses or gum arabic, have good a good contrast ratio and notably better contrast ratio performance than composition 3 outside the invention not including any dispersant. [0910] Example 4: Evaluation of the effect on the skin color

[0911 ] Protocol

[0912] Using a Konica Minolta CR-400 chromameter (standard CIE 1964 10°

observer, ilium inant: CIE D65 type), a colorimetric measurement is taken on a color card representative of a naked skin, by measuring the Red, Yellow and lightness indices, a ^* b ^* and L ^* respectively.

[0913] The formulation is then spread as a coat 50 pm thick onto a PET film (PA- 2871©, BYK10 Gardner). It is left to dry for 1 hour at room temperature: The film with the formulation is deposited over the color card representative of a naked skin. Using a Konica Minolta CR-400 chromameter (standard CIE 1964 10° observer, illuminant: CIE D65 type), a colorimetric measurement is taken, by measuring the Red, Yellow and lightness indices, a* b* and L* respectively.

[0914] [Tables 6]

[0915] Surprisingly, compositions 1 and 2 in accordance with the invention allow a good reduction of the parameter a, greater than that obtained with composition 3 outside the invention not including any dispersant.

[0916] Compositions 1 and 2 show, surprisingly, good performance in terms of

correcting color imperfections on the skin (brown spots, redness, etc.), notably on facial skin and in particular for reducing skin redness.